Knowing that the Crunch is coming, Elijah has spent most of his

time and a small fortune buying and studying every good book and

Video he could fine on Survival, Mountain Man and Native American

Indian Arts, Crafts and skills.

Since Elijah has been a part time Mountain Man, Hunter,

Rifleman, Fisherman, Trapper, Survivalist and paramilitary buff for

over 40 years, he knows what will work and won't work out in the

wild. So, he is an expert when it comes to evaluating the survival

books he recommends. He has put his 40 years of experience and

thought into producing this Survival Primer Book. He has worked for

the Fish & Game Department and out of the Washington State Patrol

office as a Driver License Examiner and License Inspector.

Elijah has worked as a Powder-Monkey, Preacher, Theologian, Auto

Mechanic, TV and Radio Repairman, Computer Repairman, Computer

Programmer, Computer Consultant and Robotic Engineer. He has built

several computers from the ground up. He has become proficient in

over 25 computer languages. When he sets his mind to it, he can

interface and program a computer for anything he wants a Robotic

devise to do. His major is Theology. He is a top Theologian!

Elijah has studied, Wild Edible Plants, Wild Medical Plants,

Booby Traps, Professional Trapping, Poaching, Fishing, Hunting,

Reloading Ammunition, Robotics, Computer Programing, Books on

making Explosives, Books on Intelligence, Counter Intelligence,

spying, information gathering, skip tracing, and detective work. He

have studied all the books and videos he has listed in this book.

Note: Most good survival books don't stay in print very long. By

waiting Six months sometimes it is too late to buy the book. You

can't find most of the books recommended in used book stores. In

just a year or too half the books recommended by Elijah could go out

of print. Buy the books now while you can get them. Almost all the

books listed by Elijah are currently in print as of 12-30-1995.

Please bear with Brother Elijah when you read this book. Elijah

does not claim to be a professional writer. He said he is a good

documentor, or compiler of facts and not a writer! I told him the

book needs lots of work to make it flow smooth, removing the

frequent duplication.

Elijah said: "I don't claim to be a writer. The facts are in the book

and I made it easy enough for the average person to understand.

I could keep fine tuning the book for years, but the mark of the

Beast is coming soon. What good is the book if it does not get

to the Christians before the crunch comes? Besides, I have ruined

my health in the last ten years with all this book studying

and book writing. This is my third book, I have done enough

writing. I have said all I need to say. It is time for me to forget

about writing and concentrate on going out in the wild living off

the land, hunting plants, game, fishing and trapping animals."

He had a good point, the facts are in this survival book and it

is easy enough to understand, so we left the book the way it is. In

spite of this omission, it is still the best up to date Survival

Primer on the market. His other two books are Christian Books. The

First Christian Book, "THE DRIFTING CHURCH" contrasted the Primi-

tive Christian church with the present apostate churches. His

Second Christian book, "GENESES CYCLES, Israel, Jews and Arma-

geddon" explains the Mark of the Beast, the coming New World Order

and who is behind it! All his books are the best factual well

documented book I have read. Everything you need to know about the

Christian Church and the Coming Crunch is in his three books.

Sincerely: James Red-Hawk

ᠹ-10-96 Copyright 1996 (c) Elijah Gwinn

I.C.E. Ninja, Survival Tips

Ver. 1.0.C

Tricks, & Techniques With Ethics

Read Appendix in the back of Genesis Cycles book:

"After World War II, JEWS EXTERMINATE 2 MILLION GERMANS!"

and "GERMAN HOLOCAUST 1945- 1955".

After reading about the Death Camps of

the Soviets you will see the need for this book on survival.

The Zionist Jews funded and led the Bolshevik revolution in Russia

in A.D. 1917 and Zionist Jews were the covert ruling force in Russia

from 1917 up to the present. They murdered over 70 million Russian

Patriots and Christians after A.D. 1917. Zionist Jews and Great Briton

are also the driving force behind the United Nations, and control the

NEW WORLD ORDER, most Multinational Corporations, Banks and

One World Government.

Communism and the Communist Manifesto were the teachings of the

son of a Jewish Rabbi named Carl Marx. Carl Marx took the Communist

Manifesto out of the Babylonian Talmud which is Judaism's most

sacred set of books. The Jewish Rabbi's say the Babylonian Talmud

outranks and is superior to the Holy Bible. We are not advocating

that you should go out Jew bashing! Not all Jews are Zionists and

some Jews are good Patriotic Americans. Yet, the majority of Jews

ignorantly support Zionism.

Read my book called: "GENESIS CYCLES" for the documentation and

details of the Zionist and British conspiracy to destroy the U.S. Constitution,

murder the American Patriots, Christians and put all remaining

non-Jews in slavery. My books will all be on our Christian Patriot

Computer Internet Homepage until the British and Jewish Mossad's

American branch called A.D.L. B'nai B'rith get their anti-hate crime

bills passed into law like they have in all the other countries of the world.

The strange thing is: I don't hate anyone! I love the British and the

Jewish people and wish them no harm! Most British and Jews are good

people. It is the deeds of the British Government and the Zionists who are

spreading hate and destruction that I am against. These groups call people

like me racists for reporting the truth. They don't want their evil deeds

exposed. Expose them we will, until they kill us! I don't like racists!

When the U.N. takes control of America, all men who are a threat

to the N.W.O. [anyone who has spoken out against Zionism or the British

and all real Christians] will be hunted down and either sent overseas as

slaves or put in DEATH CAMPS and slowly starved to death. Their

women and children's homes and farms will be confiscated and the

women and children will be kicked naked and barefoot out in the

snow with no food, clothes or place to go for help.

It took us more than ten years of doing research, and

considerable expense to find the best wild edible, medical, wild

plant color photograph picture books, survival, paramilitary,

wilderness art and craft books. You can benefit from our years of

research and experience by reading this book. Because of our

research you won't have to spend years researching and collecting

books on these subjects. Nor will you be subjected to wasting your

money buying books only to find out they were inadequate and not

the best books on the subject.

It is imperative that you immediately start converting your

resources into food, supplies, hardware, guns, ammunition, survival

books and all items you will need to survive in the wilderness.

These supplies must be cached in the wilderness or in other places

where you will need them. Cache your supplies where they will be

safe and where they will be easily accessible.

If you become a refugee or fugitive with no cached supplies you

are in deep trouble. If you don't acquire sufficient knowledge

about wild edible plants, poisonous plants, American Indian

Ethnobotany, learn the American Indian and Mountain-man arts and

crafts needed to survive in the wilderness, you will die.

It is now unlawful to cache things or take bicycles or carts

into wilderness areas. It is unlawful to cache things in National

Forests for more than 24 hours. It might be unlawful to cache

equipment in state forests. To hell with such evil and unconsti-

tutional laws. Who owns the forest? God owns the forest! The public

uses the forest. The forest does not belong to the NEW WORLD ORDER!

But they think it does. They are wrong!

My family has always put most of our money and resources into

family businesses, and building up our estates with acreage to be

self sufficient. It is now obvious to us that we are going to be

taxed or driven off our property.

Thus, we are no longer going to invest much of our money and

resources into business or real-estate. We are going to commit our

resources to caching needed supplies. If you want to survive you will

do the same.

Inside sources in the U.N. have made it clear that in the next

few years, shortly after a currency change and before the year A.D. December 29th, 1995], we have less than 3 years before civil war.

There are plenty of excellent books going into detail about

Survival, Paramilitary, Escape and Evasion Techniques. Not wanting

to reinvent the wheel, we're not going into detail, but, rather

this book will give you a brief overview of the most important

Guerilla War Survival, Escape and Evasion Techniques. We will give

you Israelite Christian Elite (I.C.E) Ninja information. We give

brief basic (I.C.E.) book reports on many of the best existing

books in print on the subject.

I.C.E. has vast libraries of books on Wild Edible Plants, Poison

Plants, Botany, American Indian Ethnobotany, American Indian Plant

Medicine and Remedy, Survival, living off the land, booby traps,

Electronics, Robotics, Computer Programming, woodlore, trapping,

poaching, hunting, firearms, American Indian craft, and Guerilla

warfare books. We have studied most of the good books on the above

subjects and tried practicing most of it.

I've always been a hunter, fisherman, outdoors-man, living off

the land survivalist and paramilitary buff. I'm cognizant of what

works and doesn't work out in the wild. After this, when I say

`we', I mean I.C.E. Ninja and myself. We must all become Christian

I.C.E. Ninja if we want to survive.

We've talked with Col. Bo Gritz [Rambo], several Special Forces

people and mercenaries, and studied the best Military, S.A.S. Sur-

vival and Combat Guides. Survival Guides put out by ex-mercenary

and military people are all lacking, because they are basing most

things on their experience of always having money to buy good arms

and supplies or Big Brother backing them up.

Military survival, medical and combat guides are based on the

premises that there is always a cache, safe house, or helicopter

waiting to re-supply you, back you up or rescue you.

Almost all of their books are based on short term survival, rather

than long term survival. Short term survival tactics will often kill

you in long term survival situations. Thus, book s put out by the

government or former military people on survival are of limited value to us!

Even Guerilla warfare books written by former special forces and

mercenaries, are based on the premise that medical supplies,

M.R.E's, grenades, 50 caliber machine guns, ammunition, blasting

caps, C-4 and useful items and chemicals like Ammonium Nitrate are

always available.

The New World Order (N.W.O.) will see to it that little of the

above items will be readily available to American Patriots by the

time they push the Patriot Militia into going against the N.W.O..

Thus, the Patriot Militia needs to learn self-reliance in the mak-

ing of the components they will need. The Militia must acquire

books on chemistry and recruit as many chemists as they can.

Long term Ninja, Mountain Man and Native American [Indian]

survival, medicine, stealth, hunting, fishing, and trapping

techniques are superior for the use of American Patriot Militias

than any survival guides written by governments or paramilitary

men.

FOOD STORAGE

If you have lots of money, M.R.E.'s, commercial survival meal

packs are acceptable. Yet, for most of us who don't have money

coming out of our ears, it is better to stock up on a few hundred

pounds of rice. I currently pay $5.95 per 25 pound sack. Two people

can use a pound of dry uncooked rice per day if not much else is

available.

Pinto Beans keep well about two or three years. Then they start

getting hard to cook, with bugs and no flavor. We currently pay

$7.75 per 25 pound sack. Stock up about 50 pounds per person. Dried

peas keep well several years. Stock up about 25 pounds per person.

Sugar keeps well; stock up about 50 pounds per person.

Salt keeps well, stock up about 50 pounds per person. You will

need lots of salt for curing meat and furs. Forget Corn Meal, it

does not keep. If you want corn meal, obtain raw unprocessed dried

whole corn kernels, then mill it yourself as you need it.

It would not be a bad idea to cache a hand operated grain mill.

S.C. West has some nice hand operated grain mills for sale. Flour

doesn't keep more than a year. Stock up on a little less flour than

you can easily use in 7 months. All flour and milled grain has bugs

in it when you buy it. If you grind it yourself it will still have

bugs in it. If you want flour that will keep long term, cache dry

whole grain wheat kernels, rice, and other dry whole grain kernels

and grind them with your grain mill as you need flour.

Whole grain kernels keep well in plastic buckets or old worn-out

chest freezers almost as long as rice. The bigger the kernel the

longer it will keep. Anything that has been milled into flour does

not keep well. Bugs have a hard time getting at or eating whole

kernels, but they decimate anything that is milled.

The Olympia Washington public Timberland Library has a 60 minute

VCR video tape you can check out free of charge. It is called: "MAN

ON THE RIM, The Peopling of the Pacific, Vol. 5; Changing the

Menu". This video is part of an eleven part series of video tapes.

When viewing this video pay close attention to how primitive native

cultures of various lands and races of people plant, harvest, store

and process their grains. You will learn valuable survival lessons

in how to plant, harvest, dry, store and grind whole grain to be

used in making bread.

You will notice natives dried and stored rice on the plant stems

and cached them up in the air in little houses on stilts. They

bring the stems out and sun them every two months to dry them. The

grain keeps this way for years. Then the natives grind or mill the

grain into flour to make bread as needed.

The natives don't have freezers, electric or vacuum sealed

foods, but their food storage methods will keep food a long time.

Archeologists have found dry whole grain rice kernels which carbon

date as being thousands of years old. That shows how long rice will

keep if kept dry enough. To last this long it must be kept super

dry. In some damp climates it is impossible to keep it dry enough.

After viewing the film, you will see the huge survival value of

caching a good quality hand grinding mill!

Canned fruit and vegetables keep well, stock up about 24 cases.

Buy canned vegetables when they are on sale, currently [1995] 3

cans for a dollar.

Stock up 24, 3 pound cans of Crisco shortening and dozens of bottles

of cooking oil. Olive oil is best, but others are fine. Shortening and Oil

keeps good for decades. Can rust is the only problem.

Stock up small amounts of powdered milk, canned milk, powdered

potatoes, raisins, candy, dried fruit, etc. etc, but only what you

can recycle every year. To save money and for recycling learn how

to heavily use all the above named foods daily. Keep 5 pounds of

Indian Corn seed and a few other vegetable seeds on hand for future

gardens. Corn seed keeps about five years. Don't save hybrid seeds,

they will be useless for saving your own seed.

[Top Priority, store hoards of rice and whole grain kernels in

old worn out, non-running chest type freezers. We have kept large

amounts of both white and brown rice in old worn-out chest freezers

in Western Washington outside in unheated out buildings in original good as the day we put it in the old freezers.

Keep five gallons of Clorox Bleach on hand for water purifica-

tion. Drinking water will be hard to obtain. 1/4 teaspoon of Clorox

in two gallons or one teaspoon in ten gallons of half-way clear

river or well water works fine. Or boil 10 minutes. Some survival

books recommend one teaspoon of Clorox per five gallons of water.

From experience, we know one teaspoon of Clorox per five gallons of

water is too much unless your water is very polluted. Too much

Clorox can destroy your liver and kidneys.]

We have been informed by professional survival teachers that

special vacuum packed dry foods and seeds stored in sealed 5 and

ten gallon containers purchased from S.C. West and other survival

stores for survival purposes will last many years longer than

regular sealed plastic containers which do not have their special

vacuum sealing. The only drawback to using these special vacuum

sealed foods is the cost. Special vacuum packed dry large seed

whole grains if stored right [kept dry] could likely keep 50 years

and still be edible.

We would advise buying first at least a two year supply of

regular food items we listed above like rice, beans, dried peas,

whole grain kernels, etcetera.

Then if you can afford it and want a supply of food to keep longer than

the storage life of the regular dry bulk items we listed, buy special vacuum

packed foods and seeds to supplement your supply to last you after the

storage life of the regular foods has expired. It is said that some of the

special vacuum packed foods have been cached 10 years or more with no

sign of decay and then used. Check with your local survival supply dealer

for the storage life of their special vacuum packed seeds and foods.

One thing for sure, sprout seed and most garden seed will not

keep and germinate properly for more than a year or two. Thus, it

would be advisable to buy special vacuum packed sprout seeds and

garden seeds you want to germinate beyond the regular shelf life.

It is said that special vacuum packed seeds will germinate after

being stored for ten years. Germinative Seeds are the main items

where special vacuum packing could pay off in the long term.

Some macho types are thinking, we don't have to stock up on

anything, because, we will just go out in the wilderness with our

bugout bags and live off the land! Bull! It sounds great, but have

you tried it for an whole summer like we have? Have you tried it

for an whole winter? We doubt you have done it! Always carry a good

liquid filled compass and learn how to use it. Macho types who

think they don't need a compass are fools.

Living off the land will be the hardest work you have ever done.

It is a rough and uncomfortable way to live. Due to the harsh liv-

ing conditions, Indian men in the old days lived till about 40

years of age if they were lucky. Women were lucky to live 30 years.

If you're over 40 years old, you won't survive living off the land

unless you have experience and an excellent cache of supplies in a

good spot with drinking water, Cattails, Camas, or Wapato, fish and

game you can safely reach.

In spite of the N.W.O., we have the best living conditions the

world has ever seen. Don't be eager to rock the boat, causing a

civil war. If war comes 90 percent of us will starve to death or

die as a result of the war. Though difficult, especially for young

men, it is often better to be submissive to tyrants than to cause

the death of those weaker family members you love and respect. We

should only fight if they start confiscating firearms. Soon after

they start confiscating firearms they will set up the mark of the

beast and start killing Christians and weak family members.

End of Food Storage section

************************* BUGOUT BAGS ***************************

Obtain a fleece lined day pack or a day pack like the super

quiet Cabelas 2,250 cubic inch capacity Deluxe Whitetail Day Pack,

Cabelas catalog number HF55361 in 089 Universal Trebark color for a

bugout bag. Your bugout bag when full should not weigh more than

about 35 pounds, thus allowing you to travel light and fast. Super

quiet is the key to survival. Noisy packs and bugout bags could get

you killed.

Keep some silent soft soled high top hunting boots on hand. Only

bugout with hunting boots on. Keep light weight camp slip on

moccasins and two pair of good wool U.S. Army boot socks in your

bugout bag. Never travel on rough terrain without hunting boots. In

summer use high top tennis shoes. It is easy to sprain an ankle or

ram a stick into your ankle without high top shoes or boots.

For fires carry Gerber Strike Force #GB47120 [$11.95] and some

extra strike force cubes #GB50297 [$4.95] in the bugout bag. It is

also helpful to carry two cigarette lighters in the bugout bag, but

don't become dependent on them.

Buy the type cigarette lighters where the flame comes out the

side for lighting pipes rather than the type where the flame goes

straight up out of the top for lighting cigarettes. It is easier to

light fires with the pipe type lighters. We prefer refillable

butane lighters.

Keep in the bugout bag one extra compass; small magnifying

glass; one 3 3/4 to 5 inch Buck or similar folding hunting knife

[$35] for gutting deer; Gerber 6 inch blade LMF Tactical #GB5959

[$106] knife for camp knife; one double edge knife like the Ek

Swat-4, and Gerber Mark II for combat and killing attack dogs.

[Double edged knives are fine for combat and killing dogs, but not

of much use around camp.]

Keep in or on the bugout bag three Emergency 52x82 inch Space

Blankets [Sold at S.C. West about $1.75 each]; one AA battery

Maglite Pen Flashlights with two extra sets of AA batteries and

bulbs; One Gerber camp axe [$35]; Glock Field Spade [$40], Leather-

man E.O.D. Tool black with cap crimper [$50]; Katadyn or similar

Pocket Water Filter [$250]; Canteen; 100 foot of O.D. parachute

cord; awl with stitching needles, and a role of stitching twine;

small sewing kit; wear digital wrist watch; small Gerber #GB7560

signal mirror [$7.95]; small 6 inch long solar powered AM & FM radio to

keep in touch with what is being said about you and weather

conditions; small first aid kit; snake bite kit; tweezers; large

toenail trimmer; small scissors; bar of hand soap in plastic

cigarette case; small lock pick kit; deer, elk & coyote calls [learn how

to use calls].

Put in the bugout bag lineman pliers; dark brown wool sock hat;

wear dark brown leather wide brim Australian out-back type western

style hat; one wide leather belt; pair of suspenders; two wash

rags; one hand towel; small pistol cleaning kit, ink pen; small

note pad; Army Mess Kit; two large 33 gallon plastic garbage bags; bugout items are more important than food. If you have these items

you can always get food. Put a two day supply of food in the bugout

bag. Never mimic what you see on T.V. like throwing away an empty

canteen or other important equipment.

Be ready to bugout with one Tompson Center Contender Pistol,

with one 10 1/2 inch 22 long rifle barrel with 1 1/2 to 4 power

variable pistol scope. Keep Contender Pistol in bandolier style

holster on outside of bugout bag with 100 rounds of 22 LR in bugout

bag. Never carry rifles when bugging out. The Contender pistol is

more accurate than most rifles. My Contender pistol shoots a 1 inch

The 22 LR is for small game and when you don't want to make much

noise. Shoot deer in side of head near ear with 22 LR. Try not fir-

ing more than one shot while poaching or sniping so they can't tell

what direction the shot came from, allowing you time to escape.

Never carry your bugout bag into harms way if you can avoid it.

For food in bugout bag, carry only salt; pepper for spice; candy;

sugar and light weight two day food supply. Survival fare needs

salt and spice to taste palatable. Keep light weight, dark color

day pack bugout bag handy in your car or home. The day pack will

later be used for raids. When bugging out carry one 9mm or 40 S&W high

capacity semiautomatic pistol. Carry your semiautomatic pistol in

shoulder holster. Carry 50 rounds of 9mm or 40 S&W.

END OF BUGOUT BAG SECTION

*********************** THREE TYPES OF CACHE ********************

Cache near your retreat, one green backpack like Cabela's Forest

Alaskan III; Denali; or Camp Trails Wilderness External Pack with

frame. Close proximity caches are caches which are within one day

of easy foot travel from your home, or retreat in a place where you

can obtain additional survival supplies to get you by until you can

reach your retreat area or move to another retreat. These are items

which are very important to survival but too heavy to carry in your

bugout bag. Make at least two close proximity caches, one near your

home and one near your retreat. Your retreat close proximity cache

should be about 5-7 miles from your retreat just in case you are

driven off your retreat area.

A backpack with frame like Cabela's Alaskan III and an extra day

pack with an extra set of all the above named bugout bag items

should be cached in a close proximity cache for backup just in case

you lose or can't reach your bugout bag. Keep one 357 magnum

stainless steel revolver with holster [50 rounds] with 3 inch

barrel in each close proximity cache for backup just in case you

can't get to, or, something happens to your semiautomatic pistol.

DON'T FORGET to put a couple of the best books in the "TOP WILD

EDIBLE PLANT BOOKS" section in each of your close proximity caches

as food source guides.

Don't confuse close proximity caches with relay caches. Relay

caches are caches spaced about 5 miles apart on the route to your

retreat. Relay caches are very small caches with two day supply of

food, extra pair of clean sox; cigarette lighter; fuel; two garbage

bags; two ziplock baggies; 20 rounds of ammo; three emergency space

blankets. Put in relay caches the small amount of supplies you will

need until you can get to the next relay cache. One hacksaw blade

is placed on the outside of each 4 inch diameter cache tube under

the garbage bag and shipping tape wrapper. See caching ammunition

section for details on packing, sealing and wrapping cache tubes.

Put in close proximity caches: small file; small prybar; hacksaw

blades; 12- 5 foot snares with live-catch Locks for Beaver and 12- Snares are made with 3/32 7x7 Galvinized Aircraft cable described

in the "Needed Trap & Snare" section of this book. They look something

like the snare on page 89 of Survival Poaching.

Cache in close proximity cache one small hand trowel used for

digging and setting out garden plants; extra change of clothes; one

hand towel; one bath towel; Rain Poncho; Light weight Vest for

summer and winter use; Wool Sweater; dark green or brown Wool

winter coat for year round use; Army mess kit or Mountain Climbers

cooking kit; more Space Blankets; Sleeping Bag; Tarp; extra boots;

sox; assault rifle and about 200 rounds of ammunition.

You might be thinking it too expensive to cache an assault rifle

in all your close proximity caches, but you can purchase an S.K.S.

assault rifle in perfect condition at this writing from $100.00 to

$150.00 each.

It has been said by several local survivalists that when the

crunch comes, the survivalists from the large cities like Seattle

will all head for the hills and every square mile of forest in

Western Washington will have 50 survivalists on it shooting

everything that moves. This is possible!

Many of them say that because of this, they plan on fleeing to

Canada for six months, then returning to Washington State after the

blood bath is over. They say to cache most of your supply in the

forests of Western Washington and a six month supply in a Canadian

primitive area.

We hope those 50 survivalists on every square mile of forest

will have brains enough to make alliances and go out on raids

against big brother and the cities rather than killing each other.

We don't need to be killing each other when we have a formidable

enemy like the New World Order to kill and rob. Anyone siding in

with the N.W.O. or receiving the mark of the Beast should be fair

game.

After reading the books in the "TOP WILD EDIBLE PLANT BOOKS"

section of this book, hunt around for an ideal place to live off

the land. Items you can't carry in bugout bag should be cached in

your close proximity caches or your Retreat Cache. The cache about

two or three miles from your retreat we call the Retreat Cache.

Your retreat is a place you prefer that you have picked out ahead

of time. Your preferred retreat place should have plenty of

drinking water; Cattails, Camas, or Wapato; lake or river for fish

traps and game animals. Your retreat will be a 4x4 by 8 foot long

cave you have created under about 4 feet of earth.

Put in Retreat Cache two hundred and fifty pounds of rice and 5

pounds of Sprout Seeds [See Sprout Section] for each person in your

group, extra hunting boots, hip boots and hightop tennis shoes;

soxs; knife sharpening stones; rifles; pistols; ammunition; Clorox;

flashlights; batteries; bulbs; lanterns; mantles; food; cooking

oil; salt; pepper; spices; soap; wash-board and tub; clothing;

skinning knife; axes; steel traps; cedar and pine shake shingle

making tool [froe]; extra parachute cord; rope; wire; tarps; fuel

oil; 50 gallons of Kerosene in 2 and 5 gallon plastic gas cans

[make sure plastic gas cans are made for storing gas]; stoves; [12

inch, 6 quart cast iron Dutch Oven [$35.00] with recessed lid is

very important]; cooking utensils; mountain bicycle; one wheel game

tote; rope hoist; cable hoist; important survival books.

Also put in the retreat cache a roll of 7x7 3/32 and 1/8 inch

diameter galvanized aircraft cable, Cam-Locks, live-catch Washer

Locks and #9 snare swivels for deer, wolf and bear snares; 1/16th, cable, Cam-Locks, live-catch Locks, #12.5 snare swivels for fur

bearing animals from Muskrat, to beaver, coyote, raccoon, bobcat.

You will understand why in later chapters.

Add a roll of 1/16th inch diameter 7x7 galvinized air craft

cable, 1/16 size live-catch and Cam-Locks; #12.5 snare swivels for

small game and rabbit snares; and 1/2 to 3/4 inch mesh wire for

cages and fish traps; fish & frog spear tips; fishing gear; round grommet

crimper to crimp 1/2 or 3/4 inch mesh wire cages together with

little aluminum strips for fish traps and cages. The cap crimper on

the Leatherman might serve double duty here. Assortment of nails;

Screws with round donut shaped tops for booby traps. Except for

snare equipment, most of these items can be acquired at your local

hardware store.

Keep one 223 Contender Pistol, 16 inch barrel with 1 1/2 to 4

power variable pistol scope in your Retreat Cache. The 223 pistol

is great for sniping and deer hunting. Our 223 Pistols shoot less

than one half inch 5 shot groups at 100 Yards. Plenty good for

humans or deer out to 250 yards. This pistol does not attract as

much attention when hunting out of season as a rifle.

If you have assault rifles cache them near the area where your

Militia group fights and near your survival Retreat Cache. Don't

carry rifles while bugging out, it attracts too much attention.

Try not killing anyone while in survival mode. Do your killing

while on raids. But, don't do it near your cache area if you can avoid it.

Keep your raids out of your retreat habitat county. If you don't

have an assault rifle buy three. One at Close Proximity Cache near

home, one to cache near retreat habitat and one to keep handy at

home. Mini 14, 223 caliber (Mini 14 ranch rife is best, $520.00);

A.K.47 [$275.00] or S.K.S. in 7.62x39, $120.00; AR15 in 223

caliber, $750.00; M14 or M1A in 308 caliber, $650.00.

We can't recommend substitutes. It is better if we all have the

same assault rifles. Then we can trade parts, clips and ammunition.

If your rifle takes clip magazines buy and cache several. Buy a

minimum of one thousand rounds for each assault rifle. [223, all but 200 rounds for each assault rifle cached. Buy a copy of

Shotgun News [1-800-345-6923, $22.00 per year] for current prices.

END OF CACHE SECTION

*************** TOP WILD EDIBLE PLANT BOOKS ********************

The three best color photograph picture books on wild Edible

Plants are: "EDIBLE WILD PLANTS, A North American Field Guide", by

Elias & Dykeman ISBN 0-8069-7488 -5, [1990, $14.95]. The second best for

bugout with some color photograph pictures is: "EDIBLE WILD

PLANTS", by Lee Allen Peterson, ISBN 0-395-31870-X, [1977, $15.00]

We keep them both in each of our close proximity caches.

The third is the best color picture food and medicine book for

the Northwest: "DISCOVERING WILD PLANTS, Alaska, Western Canada,

The Northwest", by Janice Schofield, [1989, $24.95], ISBN 0-88240- criptions and discusses edible, poison and medical plants. It has

If it were not so big, we would put it in bugout bags. It is

excellent. The fourth best book has no color pictures, "WILD EDIBLE

PLANTS of Western North America", [1975, $8.00], by Donald R. Kirk,

ISBN 0-87961-036-0. The new edition does have color pictures.

The very BEST FOOD & MEDICINE BOOK for the Northwest is an Ethnobotany

book on Northwest Native American Survival. It is called: "Memoir

No. 3, Royal British Columbia Museum, THOMPSON ETHNOBOTANY,

Knowledge and Usage of Plants by Thompson Indians of British

Columbia." [1990], I.S.S.N. O843-5383; NO. 3. It is a large 8.5x11

inch book with 335 pages.

It can only be obtained by sending $25.00 check to Royal British

Columbia Museum, 675 Belleville street, Victoria, B.C., Canada, V8V your book. We would gladly pay a small fortune for this book. We

are tempted to put it in our bugout bags. If it had color pictures

and was not so heavy, it would be our first choice for the bugout

bag. It is the best food and medicine book in our entire library.

One of the best two books on wild fruit and berries for the

Pacific N.W. is a 64 page book called "Wild Edible FRUITS & BERRIES" by

Marjorie Furlong and Virginia Pill, ISBN 0-87961-032-8 [$7.95] It

has color pictures and descriptions of 42 of the major fruit and

berry trees and plants which are found in Western Washington and

much of the Pacific Northwest.

"Wild Berries of the Pacific Northwest" by J.E. Underhill [1974, book with descriptions and lots of color photograph pictures.

"Northwestern Wild Berries", by J.E. Underhill ISBN 0-88839-027-0,

[96 pages] is almost a clone of his book "Wild Berries of the

Pacific Northwest". The two books have many of the same color

pictures and text.

"NORTHWEST NATIVE HARVEST", by Carol Batdorf, [1990, $8.75],

ISBN 0-88839-245-1, 96 pages, put out by Hancock House Publishers obtained from Moscow Hide & Fur Co. POB 8918, Moscow Idaho, 208-882-0601,

Fax 208-882-5715. It contains Coast Salish Indian Ingenious methods

of Native American cookery, woods best suited for fires, primitive

cooking equipment, preparation and methods of cooking. It lists the

types of wild animals, fish, seafoods and plants used by primitive

Native Americans in Washington State and how they cooked them. It

gives both the common and scientific names of the wild edible

plants, trees and vegetation used by native Americans in Washington

State. It is an excellent book, I would not part with mine.

Another excellent book is, "ETHNOBOTANY of Western Washington,

The Knowledge and Use of Indigenous Plants by Native Americans", by

Erna Gunther ISBN 0-295-95258-X, Put out by the University of Wash-

ington. It has 71 pages and no color pictures. Another good book

is, EARTH MEDICINE, EARTH FOOD, The classic guide to the herbal

remedies and wild plants of the North American Indians, by Michael

A. Weiner. It has no color pictures. It is not nearly the caliber

of the above books in this section. [1998 Update Note: Two excellent new

books are both Royal British Columbia Museum Handbooks. "FOOD

PLANTS OF COASTAL FIRST PEOPLES", $17.95, ISBN# 0-7748-0533-1, $19.95, ISBN# 1-55105-040-4 The last three books are some of the best!]

End of Top WILD EDIBLE PLANT Book Section

********** WILD PLANT COLOR PHOTOGRAPH PICTURE BOOKS ************

Wild edible plant and medical plant books need supplemented with

wild plant color PHOTOGRAPHIC picture books. You can't find color

photographic pictures of wild edible and medical plants in all the

various stages of development. Many color photographic pictures are

taken at different stages of development. Thus, the more color

photographic pictures the better. We have difficulty finding the

plants we are looking for without color photographic pictures

showing the plants in their present stage of development.

Black and white and color drawings often look nothing like the

plants they are supposed to represent. We find color photograph

pictures are be tter for amateur plant hunters. Yet, we agree that

it is dangerous to eat plants or use them for medicine without

proper identification by descriptions given in books like the five

volume set called: "Vascular Plants of the Pacific Northwest". The

five volumes weighs about 22 pounds.

There are three excellent small pocket guides to carry in your

bugout bag. "PACIFIC COAST BERRY FINDER", by Glenn Keator, illust-

rated by Jeanne Koelling, 61 pages, ISBN 0-912550-02-3, [$2.00],

with black and white drawings of plants. "THE AUDUBON SOCIETY

POCKET GUIDES FAMILIAR FLOWERS OF NORTH AMERICA", Western Region, photograph pictures, descriptions, range, habitat of Flowers.

"THE AUDUBON SOCIETY POCKET GUIDES FAMILIAR TREES OF NORTH

AMERICA", Western Region, ISBN 0-394-74852-2, [$4.95], 192 pages,

filled with large color photograph pictures, descriptions, range

and habitat of trees. The nice thing about these pocket guides is

they are small, light, and there is plenty of room to take a black

ink pen and transfer notes from books like Thompson and Western

Washington Indian Ethnobotany, wild edible and medical plant books.

The Audubon Society puts out several excellent top quality Field

Guides with many color photograph pictures, drawings and good

descriptions, like: "Field Guide to North American Wildflowers", both Western Region, or Eastern Region. About $12.00 each. Medical

and Edible tree parts are a large part of the survivalists medicine

and diet.

The best color photograph picture book on trees is, "SIMON & SCHUSTER'S

GUIDE TO TREES", With over 650 illustrations- 350 in full color. Habitat etcetera. "Simon & Schuster's Guide to PLANTS AND FLOWERS", by

Bianchini and Pantano, ISBN 0-671-22247-3, [$13.95], about 650

pages filled with color photograph pictures is an excellent book.

But, it is not specific to the Pacific N.W..

There are only a few excellent wild plant color photograph

picture books specifically for the Pacific Northwest. One of the

best for this area is, "A comprehensive Field Guide, WILDFLOWERS of

the COLUMBIA GORGE", [1988], by Russ Jolley, 332 pages. ISBN to the page, with the dates each plant is in bloom, which is the

easiest time to identify plants. It names specific places where

each plant can be found. [$19.95] It is of great value if you are

in Washington or Oregon.

You will be using the following three books to help identify

wild edible and medical plants. The best wild plant color

photograph picture books for the Pacific N.W. are: "COASTAL

WILDFLOWERS OF THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST", by Elizabeth Horn, ISBN to cover with descriptions and excellent color photograph pictures.

This book is a must for finding edible and medical plants.

Of equal value is: "WAYSIDE WILDFLOWERS of the PACIFIC NORTH-

WEST", by Dr. Dee Strickler. ISBN 1-56044-185-2, 272 pages, [1993,

$19.95] This book is filled cover to cover with descriptions,

excellent color photograph pictures and it has a visual guide for

identification which is very helpful. This book is a must.

"Mosses, Lichens & Ferns", by Vitt, March and Bovey is of equal value

because many Mosses are edible and used as dressings to heal

wounds. Some young fern fonds and Lichens are edible. Most Wild

Edible Plant books have drawings and tell you what plants to eat,

but, they don't have color photograph pictures. The "Mosses,

Lichens & Ferns" book is filled with colored photograph pictures and

descriptions.

"NORTHWEST WEEDS, The Ugly and Beautiful Villains of Fields,

Gardens, and Roadsides", by Ronald Taylor, [1990], 177 pages, full

of important color photograph pictures and descriptions. ISBN considered weeds. This is an excellent book.

"PLANTS and ANIMALS of the PACIFIC NORTHWEST", An Illustrated

Guide to the Natural History of Western Oregon, Washington, and

British Columbia, [sixth printing 1991], by Eugene N. Kozloff, 264

pages. ISBN 0-295-95597-X pbk. [$24.95] It has many excellent,

useful color photograph pictures, drawings and descriptions of wild

plants.

END OF WILD PLANT COLOR PICTURE BOOK SECTION

*********** TOP PRIMITIVE ARTS, CRAFTS & FOOD BOOK SECTION ********

Tom Brown's Survival books are one hundred times better than all

the survival books written by government and paramilitary men

combined. They are about ten dollars each. Start with "Tom Brown's

Guide to Wild Edible and Medicinal Plants". Then "Tom Brown's Field

Guide to Wilderness Survival"; "Tom Brown's Field Guide to Living

With the Earth" and "Tom Brown's Field Guide to City and Suburban

Survival".

Tom Brown has several other book titles we did not list. The

best all-around survival books are Tom Brown's series of books. Tom

Brown was trained by an Native American shaman by the name of

Stalking Wolf in Native American Survival Techniques, arts, crafts,

medicines and shelter building. Tom Brown's books can be obtained

at any book store.

We recommend adding to your library, "Survival Living Off the

Land in the City and the Country", by Ragnar Benson, [1982, 263

pages, ISBN 0-8065-0867-1, $12.00]. We recomend that you obtain the

following five books on how to obtain meat in survival situations.

"FUR, FOOD & SURVIVAL, an expert guide to trapping", by Emil R. Johnson,

ISBN 0-918751-07-1, 173 pages, [1988, $14.95]; "INTO THE PRIMITIVE,

Advanced Trapping Techniques", by Dale Martin, ISBN 0-87364-530-8, ISBN 0-87364-183-3, 256 pages, [1980, $17.95].

The snare on page 53-56 of "INTO THE PRIMITIVE, Advanced

Trapping Techniques" was our favorite deer snare. It keeps the Deer

alive until you come to get it, thus keeping the meat fresh. [See

controversy on this page about fresh meat.] Our favorite fish trap

is on page 197 of "Survival Poaching", and page 100 of "Ragnar's

Ten Best traps". Now our favorite deer snare is the 15 foot 3/32

inch diameter galvanized 7x7 aircraft cable with a Cam-Lock or

Live-Catch Lock and #9 snare swivel.

Deer Snares can be used the same as in the books listed in the

above two paragraphs or with an 18 to 25 inch snare loop supported

via a #9 wire pigtail coming from a 5 foot 5/8 inch diameter steel

rebar stake hooking the #9 wire into the Wammy on the snare. When

the animal is caught the #9 wire supporting the snare where you

want it pulls out of the snare Wammy releasing the snare from the

#9 wire support. The stake end of the snare is still hooked and

swiveled to the 5 foot rebar stake to stop the deer. The 5 foot

rebar stake is driven about half way into the ground. The other

half is sticking up in the air to support the #9 wire which

supports the snare loop.

Or you can support the snare where you want it by hooking the

Snare Wammy via a #9 wire coming from a tree. The stake end of the

snare is also hooked and swiveled to the tree to stop the deer. In

each case the bottom of the snare loop is two feet off the ground.

These items can be obtained from the Snare Shop.

To be honest, I am not yet sure whether it is best to have the

deer alive when you come to get them by using a live-catch washer

type snare-lock or whether killing them quickly with a Cam-Lock or

Sure-Lock death-catch type snare-lock is best. There are two

schools of thought. When the deer has been fighting the live-catch

snare for a long time they get all sweaty and lathered up.

If you shoot and kill the deer while it is all lathered up the

meat spoils. When they die quickly with a Cam-Lock or Sure-Lock

they die so fast they don't sweat much. On the other hand in warm

weather the meat can spoil quickly when the deer is killed by a

death-catch snare-lock. I would guess that climatic temperature and

how long you leave your snare unattended determines whether you

want to use a death-catch or live-catch snare lock. Always drown

your Beaver, Muskrat or animal on a drowning wire with a drowner-

lock if you have deep enough water nearby to drown the animal.

The water keeps the meat fresh and out of sight away from

predators. Books on Beaver or water trapping listed in the

Professional Trapping Book section of this book explain how to make

and use a Drowning wire.

"RAGNAR'S TEN BEST TRAPS, and a few others that are damn good

too", by Ragnar Benson, ISBN 0-87364-328-3, 125 pages, [1985,

$10.00]; and "COMBAT SURVIVAL, Course notes", published by Paladin

Press, 150 pages, ISBN 0-87364-212-0, [1981], This last book is an

excellent book on how to make and set dead falls and snares. It has

lots of B&W drawings to illustrate the process. Highly recommend.

John & Geri McPherson's book: "Naked into the Wilderness, Primitive

WILDERNESS LIVING & SURVIVAL SKILLS", 408 pages, ISBN 0-89745-997-0,

[$25.00]. Chapter 1 covers Brain Tanning Buckskin, Chapter 2 covers

Primitive fire bow a drill techniques and making Cordage. Chapter 3

covers making bows, arrows and bow-string. Chapter 4 covers

trapping, gathering meat and meat preservation. Chapter 5 covers

wilderness cooking methods. Chapter 6 covers field dressing game,

meat cutting and removing Sinew for bow-string. Chapter 7 covers

making baskets and other type containers.

Chapter 8 covers making primitive Pottery. Chapter 9 covers

making and using primitive tools. Chapter 10 briefly covers making

Primitive Shelters. This book would be a good book to put in your

cache. This book can be obtained from Bohica Concepts PO Box 546,

Dept Lab, Randle, Washington 98377.

"HOW TO MAKE PRIMITIVE POTTERY", by Evard H. Gibby, [$8.95],

ISBN 0-943604-38-9, 63 pages, Eagle's View Publishing Co. 6756

North Fork Rd. Liberty, Utah 84310 is the best book we have read on

how to make primitive Native American Pottery. It can be obtained

from Moscow Hide & Fur Co. Moscow Idaho.

It would be handy to have a copy of RUSTIC CONSTRUCTION, Making

Furniture, Fixtures & Outdoor Structures Using Bark, Branches & Slab Lumber" [82

pages $8.00]. You will need two catalogs to obtain most of the

tools needed to survive in the wilderness. The Best catalogs are:

"CUMBERLAND GENERAL STORE Inc." [$3.00] 1-800-334- 4640, Route 3,

Box 81 Crossville, Tn. 555 and "LEHMAN'S NON- ELECTRIC GOOD

NEIGHBOR HERITAGE CATALOG" [$3.00], 216-857-5757, Fax 216-857-5785,

PO Box 41, Kidron, Oh 44636. Bohica Concepts also sells these

catalogs.

The best book I've seen on making primitive shacks and shelters

is a classic book written by D.C. Beard called "SHELTERS, SHACKS

and SHANTIES" ISBN 0-915179-69-5, [244 pages $10.00]. Also see

books listed in the Retreat building section of my book. You will

also need "Tan your Hide" by Phyllis Hobson. ISBN 0-88266-101-9,

[135 pages $11.00] It covers tanning, tools, and making buckskin

and leather items. Obtained at any survival book store.

"TANNING/DRESSING, BLUE MOUNTIAN BUCKSKIN", by Jim Riggs, 134

pages, [$10.50], is one of the best books on dry-scape, brain

tanning, skinning and fleshing, staking, smoking deer hides and

making your own buckskin clothes. It can be obtained from Moscow

Hide & Fur Co. Moscow Idaho.

"THE COMPLETE BOOK OF TANNING SKINS AND FURS" by James

Churchill, ISBN 0-8117-1719-4, [$16.95], 197 pages, Hardcover. It

is the best book we know of on how to make soft leather and dressed

furs from the skins and hides of fur bearing animals, domestic

animals, moose, elk, bear hides and buckskin. It can be obtained

from Moscow Hide & Fur Co. Moscow Idaho.

"HOW TO SEW LEATHER, SUEDE, FUR", by Phyllis W. Schwebke and

Margaret B. Krohn, 151 pages, ISBN 0-02-011930-5, [$9.95] has 250

drawings and photographs and covers everything you need to know

about sewing furs, skins and leather. This book is one of a kind

and the best book we know of on the subject of sewing furs. We

highly recommend it. It can be obtained from Moscow Hide and Fur

Co. Moscow Idaho.

"Leather Makin" by L.J. Wells [$17.00] is an excellent book [one

of the best] on how to make Mountainman type leather and buckskin

clothes and accessories. It would be a good addition to your

survival library. Another good book is "Mountainman Crafts and

Skills" by David Montgomery, 240 pages, [$17.00] ISBN 0-88290- skills. Another good book is: "PRIMITIVE OUTDOOR SKILLS", by

Richard Jamison, 143 pages, ISBN 0-88290-263-6, [1985, $14.95] This

book picks up where "THE BEST OF WOODSMOKE" ends.

"Encyclopedia of Rawhide and Leather Braiding" by Bruce Grant is

an excellent book. ISBN 0-87033-161-2, [$24.95, fifth printing braiding and making leather goods. This is an important craft to

the survivalist.

"NATURE CRAFTS" by Ellsworth Jaeger is an excellent book if you

can find one in a used book store. [1963, 128 pages]. It covers

many old Mountainman and Indian crafts and skills. Another ex-

cellent book by Ellsworth Jaeger is: "WILDWOOD WISDOM" about

$12.95. It seems to be an updated and expanded version of his

earlier book. This updated book is more than twice a s large as the

older book. The first 6 volumes of "FOXFIRE" books are full of

early American Pioneer arts and crafts. About $5.00 per copy used.

$13.95 each new. I obtained volumes 1 through 6 used.

"HANDSPINNING" by Allen Fannin, 207 pages, [1970] is an

excellent book. We picked up one used for $18.95 in hard cover.

This is the best book we have seen on how Native Americans and

primitive people of all races made yarn with diverse techniques

such as HANDSPINNING. You must learn handspinning before you can

effectively make cords and rope from natural resources such as

wool, down, fiber, hemp, nettle, fireweed and cotton.

The only other good book on handspinning is called "YOUR

HANDSPINNING", by Elsie Davenport. [1964, 130 pages]. I found one

at the library. We are not talking spinning wheels here. These

books also cover spinning wheels, but primitive people used a hand

spinner made from a 14 inch round stick and a round weight on the

shaft. These books cover using those primitive hand spinners. You

can see a picture of a primitive hand spinner on page 83 of "INDIAN

FISHING" listed in the next paragraph.

"INDIAN FISHING, EARLY METHODS ON THE NORTHWEST COAST"

by Hilary Stewart, ISBN 0-88894-332-6, [1982, $19.95, 181 pages].

This book is filled with pictures and descriptions of making Indian fishing

nets, traps, fishing equipment, fish drying and storing techniques.

It is a good ethno-survival book if you plan on making and using

primitive fishing equipment. The coast Indians survived mainly on

fish, roots and berries. Can be ordered by most book stores.

"MAKING INDIAN BOWS AND ARROWS... THE OLD WAY", by Douglas

Wallentine, 98- 8.5x11 pages, [$12.00], ISBN 0-943604-21-4,

published by Eagle's View publishing Company. It has all you need

to know about making Bow-String, Bows and Arrows the primitive

Native American way. Can be obtained from Moscow Hide & Fur.

Another important survival craft is basket making. "Natural

Baskets" by Maryanne Gillooly is one of the best books on the

subject. ISBN 0-88266-793-9, [$16.95, 1992, 158 pages. This book

tells how to make baskets from available native plants. Obtained at

S.C. West Survivalist book store near Yelm Washington.

"The Art and Style of WESTERN INDIAN BASKETRY", by Joan Megan

Jones, 56 pages, ISBN 0-88839-122-6, [$7.95]. It covers preparing

roots and grass and shows lots of pictures of baskets from various

tribes. Not of much value unless you want to see lots of designs.

Can be obtained from Moscow Hide & Fur Company.

Knotting and Splicing rope and cable is very important to

survivalists. The best book on this subject is "THE ART OF KNOTTING

AND SPLICING" third edition, by Cyrus Day, 225 pages, [1981] It has

lots of B&W pictures on how to make knots and how to splice rope and

cable. "This is Knotting and Splicing" by Hin/Kampa/Hille, ISBN different colors to help aid in observing how to knot and splice.

It is an excellent book.

Another good book on splicing is "THE SPLICING HANDBOOK,

Techniques for Modern and Traditional ropes", by Barbara Merry,

ISBN 0-87742-952-9, [1987, $9.95, 100 pages]. It has lots of

pictures and instructions on how to splice rope.

"COUNTRY WOODCRAFT" by Drew Langsner, 1978, ISBN 0-87857-201-5,

[304 pages] is an excellent book on making useful wood items using

old homestead and pioneer tools and methods.

"CRAFT MANUAL of NORTH AMERICAN INDIAN FOOTWEAR" by George M.

White, 71 pages, [1969, $5.00], is an excellent book obtained from

Moscow Hide & Fur Company. It has pictures and instructions on how to make

about every type Indian footwear that was made in North America.

Mr. White has written several other Indian Craft Manuals such as

"CRAFT MANUAL OF ALASKAN ESKIMO", "CRAFT MANUAL OF TLINGIT"

etcetera. All the Geaoge White's books and the 1992 Video in the

next paragraph are put out now by Frank White 173 Blodgett Lane,

Ariee, Mt. 59821.

"MOCCASIN MAKING", by Frank White is a 55 minute Video presen-

tation based on the above book called: "CRAFT MANUAL OF NORTH

AMERICAN INDIAN FOOTWEAR". This video is a must have for any

serious survivalist. After viewing this video a half dozen times

you will have no trouble making several styles and types of

American Indian Moccasins and footwear. Protecting your feet is one

of the most important aspects of survival.

Knowing how to make your own Moccasins and footwear is a life

saving craft. Footwear will be in high demand during the crunch.

You can barter the footwear you make with fellow survivalists and

merchants. The video shows you how to make boots which almost rival

modern boots. The Moccasins and Footwear in this video are easy to

make. Anyone should be able to make them after watching this video.

After carefully watching and studying the video a few times you

should have no trouble making the Moccasins and Footwear in the

book without the video, by merely following the instructions in the

companion book. To learn fast and easy the video is a must!

"THE AMERICAN INDIAN CRAFT BOOK" by Marz Nono Minor, 1972, 416

pages, ISBN 0-8032-5891-7, [$10.95], in paperback. It has Patterns

for dresses, moccasins, headgear, vests, and menus for feasts;

types of Indian dwellings and how to make your own tipi. It is of

interest. Obtained at any book store.

"PLAINS INDIAN AND MOUNTAIN MAN ARTS AND CRAFTS: An Illustrated

Guide", by Charles W. Overstreet, 8.5x11, 158 page paperback,

$13.95], ISBN 0-943604-41-9. Shows how to make most of the items

used by North American Indians and Mountain men. Filled with

picture and drawings. The book is well worth the money. Put out by

Eagle's view Publishing Co. Liberty Utah. Obtained from Moscow Hide & Fur.

"THE CANNING, FREEZING, CURING & SMOKING OF MEAT, FISH & GAME", by Wilbur F. Eastman Jr., 202 pages, ISBN 0-88266-045-4, [$9.95]. It is one of

the best book on the market on how to preserve meat. Covers

butchering, modern and primitve way to preserve meat. Well worth

the money. Obtained at Moscow Hide & Fur or S.C. West.

END OF PRIMITIVE ARTS, CRAFTS & FOOD BOOK SECTION

**************** TOP WILD MEDICAL PLANT BOOKS ******************

For Native American Medical Plants, obtain the two volume set

called, "Medicinal Plants of Native America", by Daniel E. Moerman,

[1986], I.S.B.N. 0-915703-09-2. It is put out by the Regents of the

University of Michigan, The Museum of Anthropology, [$30.00]. It

has 910 pages. It lists the names of all the medical plants and

what they were used for as used by all the various Native American

tribes on the North American Continent.

There are three other good books on American Indian Medicine,

"AMERICAN INDIAN MEDICINE", [$19.95], by Virgil J. Vogel [fifth

printing 1990], 578 pages. ISNB 0-8061-2293-5. "INDIAN HERBALOGY OF

NORTH AMERICA", [$17.00], by Alma R. Hutchens, ISBN 0-87773-639-1.

It has 382 pages. "AMERICAN MEDICINAL PLANTS", by Charles F.

Millspaugh, ISBN 0-486-23034-1, [$13.95] It has 804 pages.

Another good book is: "Magic and Medicine of Plants", by

Reader's Digest, ISBN 0-89577-221-3. It has 464 pages. It has lots

of good color pictures, drawings and descriptions of the plants you

will need to use. Most Medical Plants are Poisonous, thus, they

should be used with caution.

The proper way to identify Edible, Poison, and Medical Plants in

the State of Washington, would be to acquire the $237.00 five

volume set of Vascular Plants of the Pacific Northwest put out by

the University of Washington. ISBN 0-295-73983-5 [Fifth Printing Harrington & Durrell, ISBN 0-8040-0149-9 [$9.95].

Most states have books like: "Vascular Plants of the Pacific

Northwest", put out by your local University. The five volume

"Vascular Plants of the Pacific Northwest", covers most plants in

Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and Western Montana.

The problem with books like "Vascular Plants of the Pacific Northwest",

is that they have B&W drawings of plants and no colored photographic

pictures to help you identify or find the plants you are looking for.

We have difficulty finding the plants we are looking for without

colored photographic pictures. B&W AND Color drawings often look nothing

like the plant they are supposed to represent. We find colored

photographic pictures are better for amateur plant hunter.

Yet, we agree that it is dangerous to eat or use medical plants

without proper identification by descriptions given in books like

Vascular Plants of the Pacific Northwest. The five volumes weigh

about 22 pounds.

You won't be able to understand the five volume set unless you

carry two or three books like: "How to Identify Plants", by

Harrington & Durrell, 203 pages, ISBN 0-8040-0149-9, [1979, $9.95];

"Taxonomy of Flowering Plants", by C.L. Porter; and "How To

Recognize Flowering Wild Plants", by Grimm. The last two might not

be in print.

I take a two foot square case of Plant Identification books with

me in my car when I go plant hunting. Plant hunting is a nice

inexpensive hobby once you lay out a thousand dollars for books. I

enjoy hunting plants.

The problem is, you need all the wild edible, medical, and

colored photographic picture books and Identification books listed

in this book until you have vast experience in Plant

Identification. In a survival situation you can't pack one hundred

pounds of books around with you. It is very difficult to live off

the land until you have years of experience as a plant hunter.

I often go through 15 Identification and colored photographic

picture books before I am finally able to properly identify the

wild plant, bush or tree I am looking at. The more books you have

the easier it is to identify what you are looking at. Make sure to

have an extra set of the best wild plant colored photographic

picture books and the best wild edible and medical plant books in

your cache. If your best books are cached and you don't have an

extra set handy you can't practice plant hunting. If you want to

survive the crunch, you need lots of practice at plant hunting. Get

started now!

Two excellent books without pictures, but with colored or black

and white drawings and descriptions, are: "PETERSON FIELD GUIDES,

Pacific States WILDFLOWERS", by, Niehaus & Ripper, 432 pages ISBN FLOWERS of North America", by Frank Venning, ISBN 0-307-13664-7, are often in these books.

One of the best tree identification books for this area is,

"NORTHWEST TREES, Identifying & Understanding the Region's Native Trees",

by Arno & Hammerly, 222 pages, [$10.95], ISBN 0-916890- 50-3, Has only

information, black and white drawings and descriptions.

A good tree identification book which has only color drawings,

descriptions, and regions where found is: "Golden, A guide to Field

Identification TREES, of North America", by, C. Frank Brockman, 280

pages, ISBN 0-307-13658-2. We often find drawings of trees we have

no color pictures of in this book. The region maps are handy.

Two handy identification books are: "MASTER FLOWER FINDER", ISBN are good at helping you understand the necessary steps to properly

identifying flowers and trees.

An excellent pocket guide on Medical Plants is "The Instant

Guide to MEDICINAL PLANTS" by Pamela Forey and Ruth Lindsay, 123

pages, [1991, $5.00] ISBN 0-517-69113-2, it has color drawings and

descriptions of plants and medical uses. The only drawback on this

book is that it is not specific to the Pacific N.W.. It is specific

to North America.

"ALASKA'S WILDERNESS MEDICINES, Healthful Plants of the Far

North", by Eleanor G. Viereck, 110 pages, ISBN 0-88240-322-2,

[$9.95], Shows Back & White Drawing of plants, gives descriptions, common

and scientific name of plant. Explains how the plant is used for

medicine. The book is of interest and worth the money, but it

duplicates many of the books we have already listed.

END OF WILD MEDICAL PLANT BOOK SECTION

***************** POISONOUS PLANT BOOK SECTION **************

No study of wild edible and Medical plants is complete without a

study of wild poisonous plants. It is more important to study pois-

onous plants than it is to study edible plants. By being familiar

with poisonous plants, we are less likely to be poisoned. Also,

poisonous plants can be used to poison the enemy.

The best book on poisonous Plants is: "COMMON POISONOUS PLANTS

and MUSHROOMS OF NORTH AMERICA", by Turner & Szczawinski, [About $49.95],

ISBN 0-88192-179-3, 311 pages, 200 Illustrated color photographs,

descriptions, Toxicity, Treatment, etcetera. It covers poisonous

plants, trees and mushrooms.

The second best book is: "A.M.A. HANDBOOK of POISONOUS and

INJURIOUS PLANTS", by Dr. Kenneth Lampe, Mary Ann McCann, A.M.A.

Division of drugs and Technology, 432 pages, ISBN 0-89970-183-3,

[1985, $28.00] It has color photographs, descriptions, Symptoms,

Toxin content, Toxic parts of plants, Regional Distribution,

Management, Trea tment, Drugs to counter, References, etcetera.

The third best book on poisonous plants is called "Peterson

Field Guides VENOMOUS ANIMALS & POISONOUS PLANTS", by

Steven Foster and Roger Caras, 246 pages, [1994, $15.95] ISBN 0-395-35292-4.

It has black and white drawings and descriptions of plants with a good

color photograph picture section in the back of the book.

"PLANTS THAT POISON", by Schmutz & Hamilton has black and white

drawings of poisonous plants, descriptions, Symptoms, ISBN 0-87358- tain poisonous plant books, so it is helpful. We have searched, but

we don't know of any other good books on wild poisonous plants.

One other poison book of interest is: "DEADLY DOSES, A Writer's

Guide to Poisons", by Stevens & Klarner, 298 pages, ISBN 0-89879- 371-8,

[1990, $16.95], It names the poison or plant, or chemical,

Toxicity, Form, Effects, Symptoms, Reaction times, Antidotes,

Treatment, etcetera. It was written to give fiction writers facts,

so they could be realistic and not boring or ridiculous to doctors,

policemen and other experts who might read the book or watch the

T.V. movie.

END OF POISON PLANT BOOK SECTION

******************** BOOKS OF INTEREST SECTION ****************

We have not discussed Mushrooms for good reasons. All Mushrooms

have deadly look-alikes. There are so many thousand of kinds of

Mushrooms it would take volumes to document them. The only way to

know for sure a mushroom is not poisonous, is to put it under a

microscope to check the spores. It's more trouble than it's worth.

Like most good survival books we recommend you stay away from

picking and eating mushrooms. It amazes us how so many restaurants

buy mushrooms from amateur pickers with little experience and no

microscopes without killing their consumers.

If you must play with Mushrooms the book called: "THE NEW SAVORY

WILD MUSHROOM", by McKenny and Stuntz is one of the best for

Western Washington. It is put out by the University of Washington

Press. It has colored photographic pictures, 250 pages, second

printing 1991, ISBN 0-295-96480-4, $16.95.

Euell Gibbons two books: "STALKING THE WILD ASPARAGUS" and

"STALKING THE HEALTHFUL HERBS", field guide editions are very good,

but are not of as much value in the Pacific Northwest. Simon & Schuster's

Guide to CACTI AND SUCCULENTS, has 350 full color photographs, and

includes 301 species of Cacti. [$10.95], 384 pages, shows regions

where found. It is of value in dry climates like eastern

Washington, eastern Oregon and eastern Montana.

"AMERICAN WILDLIFE & PLANTS, A GUIDE TO WILDLIFE FOOD HABITS", by

Martin, Zim and Nelson is of interest. It tells of the use of

trees, weeds and herbs by birds, mammals of the United States. It

gives hunters, and trappers insight about what animals eat and

where they can be found. ISBN 0-486-20793-5, [$8.95], 500 pages.

"INDIAN DOCTOR", Nature's method of curing and preventing

disease according to the Indians. ISBN 0-936672-17-X, [$3.00], 54

pages. It has a few things of interest. "THE COMPLETE BOOK OF HERBS

AND SPICES", ISBN 0-316-53070-0, [$9.95], 313 pages. It has

drawings and some useful information. "CULPEPER'S COMPLETE HERBAL &

ENGLISH PHYSICIANS enlarged", by Nicholas Culpeper, ISBN white man's knowledge of plant medicine in A.D. 1814. It is very

useful.

"HOW INDIANS USE WILD PLANTS FOR FOOD, MEDICINE & CRAFTS", by Frances

Densmore is a useful book. [$6.95, 397 pages] ISBN 0-486-23019-8.

It has an important section on making maple sugar, drying food,

most survival arts and crafts of Chippewa Indians of Minnesota.

One last book with some merit. "Folk Medicine", by, D.C. Jarvis,

M.D. [seventh printing 1965. Often picked up in used book stores

for $2.00. It has many useful Folk Remedies, used by White Men and

Native Americans in the old west.

END OF BOOKS OF INTEREST SECTION

************************ MODERN MEDICAL BOOKS ******************

Survivalists should have a copy of United States Army ST31-91B

"US ARMY SPECIAL FORCES MEDICAL HANDBOOK", put out by Paladin

Press. It has 600 pages, ISBN 0-87364-454-9, [1988, $19.95]. It is

filled with modern medical advice on how to take care of the

wounded and sick during back country Guerilla type activity.

"MEDICAL BOTANY, Plants Affecting Man's Health", by Walter & Memory

Lewis, ISBN 0-471-86134-0, [1977, $33.00], 513 pages, is the best

book to our knowledge put out by white men on modern medical use of

plants. It is a must for survivalists. It is just as good if not

better for Militia use than ST-31-91B "US ARMY SPECIAL FORCES

MEDICAL HANDBOOK". We would not be without either book in our

survival library.

There is one survival book put out by government that has merit.

We would recommend adding it to your library. It's called,

"SURVIVE, SAFELY ANYWHERE, THE SAS SURVIVAL MANUAL", by John

Wiseman, ISBN 0-517-56250-2, [1986], 288 large pages. It has lots

of useful information. This book covers first aid well.

The following two Green Pharmacy Plant Medicine related titles,

are also excellent. "PLANETARY HERBOLOGY", by Michael Tierra, C.A.,

N.D.. An integration of Western Herbs into the traditional Chinese

and Ayurvedic Medical Systems. ISBN 0941-524272, [1988, $16.95], It covers both wild and domestic Medical Plants in America. It's a

very useful book used in conjunction with Native American Medicine.

"SCIENCE OF HERBAL MEDICINE, Pharmacological, Medical, Histori-

cal, Anthropological", by, John Heinerman. ISBN 0-89557-044-0,

[1984, $19.95], 318 pages. This book reveals the monopoly the

pharmaceutical industry has on modern medicine and how they have

spent vast amounts of money discrediting other forms of medicine

which work just as well as modern medicine and are less harmful. It

gives dosage, Herb to use and its' comparative result compared to

modern medicines.

Don't forget to cache medical supplies you will need in

emergency survival situations. It would not be a bad idea to

purchase the book "WHERE THERE IS NO DENTIST", by David Werner,

[1983, $6.50], ISBN 0-942364-05-8, 190 pages and the book "WHERE

THERE IS NO DOCTOR", by Werner, Thurman & Maxwell, [1992, $12.95], 446

pages, ISBN 0-942364-15-5, from S.C. WEST. These books suggest what

medical supplies you will need to cache. These two books are highly

recommended by experts on survival.

END OF MODERN MEDICAL BOOK SECTION

******************* WAR Is HELL Section! *********************

From what we understand, our wicked Zionist controlled govern-

ment plans to call in the greenbacks in late 1996 or early 1997

replacing them with I.D. MONEY. Shortly thereafter they plan to

confiscate our assault rifles and pistols. They have plans to make

it mandatory for everyone to be injected with an I.D. 666 mark of

the beast chip like they put under the skin of dogs by the year

A.D. 2000.

As far as God is concerned, when they come to take our assault

rifles it is time for war! When you can't buy or sell without the I.D.

chip it is time for war! When the time of war starts, as far as God is concerned,

it is ethical to kill those who cross our path if they are government agents,

government employees or any person who has received the mark of the beast.

Those with the I.D. chip injected into them have the wrath of God

[Revelation 14:9-12] abiding on them, God will show them no mercy!

Neither should we show them any mercy! It is a Holy War, we should bring

the wrath of God to their front door! Yet, wait until the civil War starts.

The government plans to start media brainwashing and sell the

idea of I.D. chips for humans shortly after they confiscate the

greenbacks. They will make many good arguments as to why it is

beneficial for us all to be injected with I.D. chips. It will stop

crime. It will stop theft. It will save money, etc., etc., etc..

I've seen the commercials already. The reasons for having one

sounds so good, I almost want one myself, Ha, Ha.

The truth of the matter is, the government needs the public to

be injected with I.D. chips because conventional forms of I.D. in

use today are useless. With color computer scanners, color print-

ers, plastic laminators and embossers anyone can alter, replicate

or duplicate any piece of I.D. the government puts out.

We must stop government infringement on our right of privacy at

some point. When they try to force I.D. chips on us, it is a good

time to put a halt to government infringement on privacy. They had

no right in the first place to force Social Security Cards and

Identification cards on the public. We must stop them from forcing

I.D. chips on us!

They will provide I.D. chips on a voluntary bases to start with.

Then after many people have I.D. chips they will demand people on

Social Security, S.S.I., government pension recipients, unemploy-

ment check recipients and welfare recipients must have the I.D.

chip implanted in them or they won't receive or be able to cash

their checks. Then they will make it very difficult for anyone to

survive without the I.D. chip. You won't be able to receive any

government services without one. Later the I.D. chips will replace

the Social Security Card and you won't be able to work, buy or sell

without one.

In the last stage they will make it mandatory for everyone to be

injected with an I.D. chip. Those who refuse to be injected will be

declared criminals, arrested and put in concentration camps where

the government will slowly and secretly starve them to death. The

I.D. chip will be voluntary just like filing your Income Tax is

voluntary. We all know what happens when we don't voluntarily file

one!

They won't hold you down and inject you with an I.D. chip

against your will. If you refuse to volunteer for the injection,

they will just declare you a terrorist and an enemy of the state,

putting you in a concentration camp where they will covertly

terminate you. They have learned from experience in the Communist

countries that they must keep their murders behind closed doors or

the public gets upset about government murder. [See appendix "A" in

the back of this book for a preview of what the death camps will be

like.]

Most non-Christians and the majority of Christians will be

convinced the I.D. chip is just a replacement for the Social

Security Card. They will be told by the government and most

Christian ministers that the I.D. chip is not the mark of the

beast, but just an electronic Social Security Card and nothing

more. Read in the Bible, Revelation 13:11-18, 14:9-12, about the

wrath of God and eternal damnation for those who volunteer for the

I.D. chip. Because they joined in with the anti-Christ by accepting

the I.D. chip, we real Christians will help show them the wrath of

God!

There is no set time table for these events to happen. Time lines change!

The government will speed up or delay some of the events I describe

coinciding with how much and how soon the public will allow it to

happen. These events will start soon if the public will allow it.

Public opinion will either slow or accelerate these events.

If you are over 45 years old, don't get involved in raids against

big brother. If you are over 40 years old, team up with young men.

Those over 45 can tend camp chores, trap and hunt for food while

young men go out on raids. Older men who have shown by their works

to have wisdom are too valuable to risk getting killed on raids.

They just don't have the stamina it takes to break contact with the

enemy.

If you want to stay alive, don't get into fire fights. Statistics

show one out of every three shots hit their target. Our philosophy

is hit and run, don't get involved in fire fights if you can avoid it.

If you live through three fire fights you are extremely lucky.

Older men can do their part now by buying and caching guns,

ammunition, tools and supplies which the young men will be able to

use. Older men can do their part by buying and reading books on

survival arts, crafts and wild edible plants.

Then they can be a warehouse of knowledge and wisdom. Most older

men are in a better position financially to buy and cache supplies.

They have done their part if they buy and cache supplies, read and retain

survival knowledge.

Young men should also try to buy and cache as many supplies as

they can. But in most cases big brother [robber barons] keep young

men tax burdened with debts while they are trying to provide for

families and they don't have much extra money to buy survival

supplies. Try the best you can at any age to buy and cache

supplies, because the older men can't afford to buy supplies for

everyone. Neither is it fair to expect them to buy more than their

share.

Young men need the support and wisdom older men can provide as

much as older men need the strength and stamina younger men can

give. Anyone who thinks otherwise is a fool! The old and young

united are a good match. Yet, not all old men are wise. If the

ol der man has enough wisdom to buy and cache a good amount of

ammunition and supplies, he has shown himself to be wise.

If the older man was foolish enough that he did not at least

cache one assault rifle and a thousand rounds of ammunition and a

few survival supplies and food to share with younger men until the

young men can obtain their own supplies he has shown himself to be

without wisdom.

Older men without wisdom have nothing of value to contribute accept

being servants. If you just kick them out, they will rat on you to big

brother. In a civil war, if a man has no supplies, is not of value as a servant,

knows where your cache or retreat is, and you don't feel you can trust him,

you must terminate him. This sounds cruel, but under combat conditions,

you might not have any other options.

All men have had plenty of warning in the news and with what is

going on around them for the last ten years. Thus, they have no

excuse for not getting ready by caching supplies. I've been told

this statement is too rigid. Under survival conditions you have no

choice. After the crunch it is difficult, dangerous or impossible

to move your retreat or cache. If they know where your cache or

retreat is and you don't kill them, they will cause your demise.

If young men don't have cached supplies it shows they were foolish,

but at least they have the strength and stamina to go out on raids

against big brother and acquire their supplies.

In a survival situation you can't afford charity. Old men with no

supplies, wisdom or valuable survival knowledge or skills

to contribute are a burden and of no value if they are not fit

enough to hunt, be servants, forage or go on raids to get supplies!

The American Indians left old men, women and the feeble to die. It

might have been more merciful to shoot them.

Women who read this book asked: "What about women who were not

wise enough to cache supplies?" We don't normally expect women to

be as vigilant as men when it comes to seeing danger and knowing

what to do about it. The survivalist has a very difficult time

paying his bills, paying taxes to the robber barons, feeding his

family and at the same time trying to pull out enough money to buy

the supplies to cache which his own family will need when the

crunch comes.

The burden is very heavy and the vast majority of survivalists

can't put away enough supplies for their own families, so they have

nothing to spare. Therefore under survival conditions you can't

afford charity.

Women without cached supplies are tough out of luck unless some

man with supplies can afford to take them in. If you just kick them

out, they will rat on you to big brother. If a woman has no

supplies, has no knowledge you need, can't do her share in work

and knows where your cache or retreat is, and you don't feel you can

trust her, in a war you must terminate her. For this reason, you don't let

your friends, relatives nor general helpers know where your caches are!

Then you won't be forced to terminate them!

Keep in mind, when the going gets tough, and people start

starving to death, the average good time Charlie, people playing

church and the vast majority of otherwise normally nice people

become animals. When push comes to shove those otherwise nice

people will cut your throat, stab you in the back, lie, cheat,

steal, and commit mass murder to get your supplies. They turn into

animals with no morals and will turn you into big brother in a

heart beat if they think they can get a piece of bread from big

brother for turning you in.

While we are in survival mode in the wilderness, we can't afford

charity. If we are forced to terminate an old man or an old woman

who is a threat to our security and the lives of our families, the

blood is not on our hands. The blood is on the hands of the wicked

tyrants and lawyers who are in control of our government.

All the government would have to do to rectify our complaints about

the government, is to change the law going back to Common Law and

Common Law Pleading and making it unlawful for people to hire

professional attorneys.

If you want to read more on the Biblical justification of executing

criminals and tyrants read appendix D in the back of this book.

Remember, the original Greek and Hebrew Bibles did not say:

"You shall not Kill.", rather they said: "You shall not Murder".

There is a big difference between the words "Kill" and "Murder".

If you want to know more about the laws of God, read my book

called, "THE DRIFTING CHURCH". If you want to know more about the

Zionist and British conspiracy to destroy America and put us all in slavery

read my book called: "GENESIS CYCLES, Israel, Jews & Armageddon".

You can download them from our Homepage.

********************** ESCAPE AND EVASION ***********************

The best book on Escape and Evasion is the government book

called: "Survival, Evasion and Escape", by Desert Publications, PO

BOX 1751, 716 Harrell St. EL DORADO, AR. 71731-1751, 1-501-862- get you to a prison or concentration camp. When you escape, use

evasion tactics of staying off roads and paths used by the public

or government forces. Get into the back country where there are few

vehicles or people.

Practice the Ninja arts of invisibility. Read: "Secrets of the

Ninja", by Ashida Kim, ISBN 0-87364-234-1, [$16.95], 153 pages and

"Ninja Secrets of Invisibility", by Ashida Kim, [$10.00], 120

pages. By reading the appendix in the back of this book, you will

understand why you won't be able to escape after two weeks in a

concentration camp. When the Zionist New World Order crowd take

over, they will treat us just like they treated the Germans after

World War II.

EVADING DOGS

If dogs are chasing you don't waste your time sprinkling cayenne

pepper or other distracters on the ground, such things present only

minor and temporary annoyance. Rather, try to lose them traveling

in water or over firm ground like rocks versus soft ground. Rocks

are hard on a dogs nose and scent does not stay very well on hard

ground like rocks.

If humidity is low and there is a good breeze dogs don't track

well on hard and rocky ground. Low humidity = greater evaporation =

less scent near the ground. A stiff or gusty breeze = dissipation

of scent. Water = no surface for scent to accumulate on. Dogs and

their masters don't like thickets very well, so take them through

the thickest or roughest terrain you can find.

If the Dog is closing in, get your knife out in your strongest

hand behind your back. Get low with one knee on the ground and the

other leg well braced ready to lung forward so you won't be knocked

over. If you just squat down low with your weight distributed most-

ly to your rear like some paramilitary books suggest, a big dog

will bowl you over like a bowling pin.

While down on one knee have your weak arm parallel to the ground

in front of your face. If possible have something wrapped around

your weak arm so you don't get bitten. Present your weak arm to the

dog. Most attack dogs are trained to go for the nearest arm or the

arm with a weapon in it, so your knife must be hidden behind your

back. It would not be a bad idea to keep an arm pad handy on your

bugout bag so you could quickly slip it on to protect your arm from

dog bites.

When the dog bites your weak arm, thrust your entire body

forward and up, while bringing the knife swiftly from behind your

back and into the dog's midsection, ideally just below where the

ribs join at the sternum. Continue forward and get your body onto

the dog's. Don't try to cut the dog's throat, dog's have excess fur

and skin around their necks which is hard to penetrate.

Once the knife is in the dog's midsection, don't pull out the

knife and try stabbing again, you might not be successful at gett-

ing in another stab. Rather, start twisting, carving, disemboweling

or eviscerating the dog.

Don't let the dog get free until he is dead. Hide the dead dog and

leave the area. If there are several dogs closing in, you will be forced

to shoot them. It this case it would be nice to have a silencer on your gun.

For the purpose of killing dogs or men, we carry a double-edged

Applegate-Fairbairn Fighting Knife with 3/16 inch thick six inch

long blade made of very hard high carbon stainless steel. It is the

best combat knife ever made. The double-edged blade is superior to

a single edge blade for killing dogs or men. We also carry EK brand

Secret Agent Boot knives. It is the best boot knife.

SILENCERS

Obtain at least two books on home made silencers. "FIREARM

SILENCERS" Volume two, by John Minnery, 223 pages, ISBN 0-87947- three, 122 pages, ISBN 0-87947-049-6, about $14.00 is a good book.

"THE HAYDUKE SILENCER BOOK", by George Hayduke, 75 pages, ISBN AND EVALUATION" Report R-1896, by U.S. Army, 205 pages, gives the

basic principles of Silencers. "THE SILENCER COOKBOOK, 22 Rimfire

Silencers", by Nolan Wilson is a good book.

The 45 A.C.P. semi-automatic pistol in the Government model

M1911A1 and the 22 long rifle Ruger Mark II pistol are two of the

easiest pistols to obtain threaded barrels to put silencers on. The

slower the bullet the easier it is to silence. Automatics silence

better than revolvers. It is easy to attach silencers to any pistol

you can obtain a threaded barrel for.

END OF ESCAPE AND EVASION SECTION

*************** BEST GUERILLA WARFARE BOOKS ********************

The best guide on how to organize and operate guerilla warfare

units is "GUERRILLA WARFARE And Special Forces, Operations" FM Government. This book is the most important book on guerrilla

warfare. If you plan on fighting back you must have this book.

The second most important book is: "MODERN WEAPONS CACHING" by

Ragnar Benson. It is the best book we have been able to find on

caching. The book called "AIRBORNE, U.S. SPECIAL FORCES CACHING

TECHNIQUES" put out by Desert Publications and originally published

by the government is not worth the paper it is written on. "HOW TO

BURY YOUR GOODS", by Eddie the wire [$6.95, 67 pages, 1987] ISBN

The third most important book is: "AN INFANTRYMAN'S GUIDE TO

COMBAT IN BUILT-UP AREAS" FM 90-10-1, published by Paladin Press,

but originally published by the government. It is a detailed guide

on how to conduct raids and fight in the city.

Another good book is "U.S. MARINE CORPS SNIPING FMFM1-3B". The

best guerilla warfare books are on how to make blasting caps and

explosives. U.S. Army, "TM 31-210 IMPROVISED MUNITIONS HANDBOOK" is

the best and most dependable. Page 220 tells how to make fused

blasting caps. It doesn't tell how to make electric caps. But, from

studying this book and reading the following books it should not be

difficult to make electric blasting caps. You must obtain a copy of

TM 31-210. It will be your guide in evaluation of the methods in

the following books.

Chapter 8 of Ragnar Benson's book called: "Ragnar's Guide to

Home and Recreational use of High Explosives", tells how to make

electric blasting caps more powerful than military #6 blasting caps.

"Improvised Munitions BLACK BOOK Volume 3" [combined with

volumes 1 & 2] tells how to make home made electric blasting caps more

powerful than #6 military blasting caps.

The books in the above paragraph along with the books below in

this section are necessary if you plan on fighting in a guerilla

war. You will need books like Ragnar Benson's books called

"HOMEMADE C-4, A Recipe for Survival" and his newest book "NEW AND

IMPROVED C-4", 77 pages, ISBN 0-87364-839-0, $15.00. This last book is

the best book on making C-4. I like the C-4 recipe using Bullseye Pistol

Powder, a few other components and just enough Petroleum Jelly so the entire

mixture is plastic and gooey, but not sticky. I did not add the other components,

because some irresponsible person might be fool enough to try it!

DON'T TRY MIXING UP A BATCH OF C-4 FROM MY INSTRUCTIONS

OR YOU MIGHT BE KILLED!!! Buy RAGNAR'S books to see how to do this

without as much danger of getting killed. WARNING: It is DANGEROUS to

OVEN BAKE or GRIND ammonium nitrate! IT IS ALSO UNLAWFUL TO

MIX UP A BATCH OF C-4! My advice is don't try it!!!

Ragnar says, many Pistol and Shotgun powders can be used

in place of Bullseye Pistol Powder to make C-4 plastic explosives.

Don't store ground ammonium nitrate or mixed C-4! Don't finely

grind ammonium nitrate.

"RAGNAR'S HOMEMADE DETONATORS" 64 pages, $10.00, ISBN 0-87364- GET A SUPPLY OF 2 thousandths diameter Nicrome wire. We have been

having trouble obtaining 2 thousandths diameter Nicrome wire for

making electric blasting caps. The only way we can get it, is to

buy $700.00 worth which is 64 miles of wire. We don't want to spend

that much on Nicrome wire.

The following books are good: Seymour Lecker's book "HOMEMADE

SEMTEX, C-4's UGLY SISTER"; "BLACK BOOK COMPANION, State-of-the-Art

IMPROVISED MUNITIONS", by Paladin Press. "THE ANARCHIST ARSENAL"

and "THE ADVANCED ANARCHIST ARSENAL", by David Harbor; "DO IT

YOURSELF GUNPOWDER COOKBOOK" by Don McLean; "CIA FIELD EXPEDIENT

PREPARATION OF BLACK POWDERS", by Desert Publications; "SMARTBOMBS"

and "COUNTER-BOMB", by Lawrence W. Myers. Don't trust Lawrence W.

Myers electronic circuits; most of them don't work! But Myers does

have much good information in these two books.

Three books worth considering are "ASSORTED NASTIES", by David

Harber; "THE POISONER'S HANDBOOK" by Maxwell Hutchkinson; "SILENT

DEATH", by Uncle Fester. These books instruct you in the old Ninja

arts of poisoning people. As far as Martial Arts and Secrets of

Invisibility are concerned, the books teaching the Ninja Arts are

best! Ninja's unlike most other Martial Artists will use any

hightech devise or anything he can get his hands on to fight with.

The key to Ninja is to improvise and try to be invisible.

These books are all books you will need if you plan on fighting

the N.W.O.. They give instructions on how to make all kinds of

explosives from common household and readily available chemicals.

U.S. Army "FM 5-25 EXPLOSIVES and DEMOLITIONS" gives detailed

instructions on how to use and place explosive charges to blow up

bridges etcetera. You must obtain a copy of FM 5-25.

Ragnar Benson's book "BREATH OF THE DRAGON" is worth buying if

you want to know how to build an inexpensive Homebuilt Flame-

thrower. David Harber's book "IMPROVED LAND MINES" is also a book

well worth having.

Victor Santoro's book called: "DISRUPTIVE TERRORISM" tells why

the more hightech a society is the more vulnerable it is to

terrorism. Just take my word for it and don't waste your money on

Santoro's book. The bottom line is that 50 well trained men who

have read the above books can bring any hightech state like the

State of Washington to its knees in 90 days and keep it on its

knees for one thousand years.

Those books are all readily available from Paladin Press PO BOX Dorado, Ar. 71731; and "Loompanics Unlimited", PO BOX 1197 Port

Townsend, Wa. 98368, 1-800-380-2230 and S.C. West near Yelm

Washington. "Ragnor's Guide to Home and Recreational use of High

Explosives" and "RAGNAR'S HOMEMADE DETONATORS"; seems to give more

details than the other books on how to make electric blasting caps.

In books sold by Paladin Press, Delta Press, Loompanics Un-

limited and the other top paramilitary publishers, most of the

electronic circuits to time detonators, relays and for remote

activation don't work. The guys who wrote those books don't know

crap about electronics and the schematics they give are only

theoretical circuits which look good, but either don't work or are

undependable.

If you want a manuscript with simple step by step instructions

on how to make simple, dependable easy to build 555 timer circuits

to activate devices for lawful purposes contact me and I might be

talked into giving you a copy. I will not publish them on the

Internet because some lunatic might use them for evil.

My DEATH TOUCH TIMER construction manual is not yet finished,

because I have not had time to photograph the projects in the various

stages to put in the manual. The schematics are finished and most of

the text is about finished. If you know anything about electronics all

you need is the schematic and parts list in the back of the manual.

My DEATH TOUCH TIMER schematics are all tried and tested.

They work fine. They are more dependable that the circuits and devices

in most of the paramilitary books.

Yet, you should be WARNED that like electric blasting caps this

timed relay can be prematurely activated by static electric, close

or strong radio signals.

I built the DEATH TOUCH TIMER schematic so you can make

your own lawful timed relay to activate your car horn or use with a

cassette recorder and speaker for calling coyotes. This timed relay

can be used for hundreds of useful or benevolent applications. Like

all things this timed relay can be used for good or evil, lawful or

unlawful things.

Because the timed relay can be used for evil, I will not

put the schematic in the back of this book. But, I strongly believe

in the First Amendment, and the good things this timed relay can be

used for. I wrote the book you are reading for Christians, so they could

protect themselves from tyrants.

I don't want the general public to know the dangerous information

that was originally in this survival book. Thus, I reedited this book

and tamed it down for use on the Internet. Thus, I don't plan on marketing

the full book to the general public.

I plan on spending most of my time out in the wilderness, camping and

practicing the arts and crafts in the books we have listed in this

book. [As of May 1999, I've not had the chance to get out in the wilderness

again like I wanted!] We have cached all the books mentioned in this book.

I have read all of them. But, no-one can remember it all.

I don't plan on doing much writing after this except for short

Internet Homepage articles I can write in a day or two. For the last twelve

years, I have spent so much time reading, doing research, and

punching on a computer key board it has ruined my health. By. In the future,

Most of my books will be on the Homepage with the `Wordperfect Envoy for

Windows' book reader module and other PC-Dos devices.

My circuits are called "HUNTER'S CLOCK CIRCUITS"; when the small TIMERS". Yet, these timers are very useful for legitimate things

like honking your vehicle horn as activated by Alarm Clock or

remotely by radio. We use them for calling coyotes and diversions.

We use them to sound a bell when the telephone rings or someone

touches my door knob, or when a perimeter laser beam is broken. We

use them to sound a loud alarm for those hard of hearing etcetera.

It costs less than $35.00 worth of parts to build a DEATH TOUCH

TIMER with activating battery powered Digital Alarm Clock. The

Alarm Clock is ten dollars. If you want to use it as a touch

sensitive device not needing the clock it costs less than $25.00 to

build a battery powered DEATH TOUCH TIMER. To my knowledge, you

can't buy a timer relay activating device this sophisticated for

less than $350.00.

I also have an book encryption program I wrote in "C" which

works fine, but without the bells and whistles. I hope to add the

bells and whistles and finish the encryption program in the winter

of 1997. The F.B.I., C.I.A. and other agencies can't break my

encryption program because there is equal frequency of all

characters including bar spaces.

Unbreakable encryption programs have been classified by big

brother as weapons. Thus, I can't sell you a copy without your

sworn statement declaring you are a citizen of the United States

and promise you won't give a copy to anyone or export the program

out of the United States. Exporting the encryption program out of

the United States is considered treason or espionage (spying). It

is a felony to transport it out of the country.

My encryption program makes paper footprint encoder and decoder

maps which can be used out in the field with or without a computer.

This allows you to hand code a message that can be either punched

into the computer and decoded, or decoded by hand with a decoder

map on paper. The program allows encoding and decoding by computer.

You make your footprint encoder and decode maps by feeding the

computer an A.S.C.I.I. text file.

Feed it 120 lines of text and it creates 9600 keys. You must

feed it the exact text pages again to decode. Just change one word

or line in the footprint file and you can't decode the message. All

you have to do is remember the lines and pages you fed into the

computer for a footprint. The beauty of this encryption program is

the enemy does not know what pages from what text or book you used

as a footprint. Without knowing he can't decode the message. You

can use different footprint text for each of your agents.

We have been reading popular books like: "DEATH BY DECEP?????, Advanced

Improvised ????? Traps" and "DEATHT???? Improved ?????-Trap Devices",

and "IMPROVED RADIO DET???? ????NIQUES", (Added Question Marks

to partly obscure titles for legal reasons) We crack-up laughing at the schematics

and electronic devices they recommend. The things in the books in this paragraph

look good to amateurs and crackpots, but most of what they suggest

in electronically detonating electric blasting caps avoid. Most of

their circuits don't work! There are some good ideas in these books

but it is obvious to us they never tried most of the circuits and

other things they suggest.

Crackpot books like that sell like hotcakes. Yet, when I sent a TOUCH TIMER MANUAL they never responded. They probably were not

interested because they think they already have and sell such books.

Yet, most of the circuits in their books on this subject don't work.

However, they do sell excellent books on most subjects.

By the way, I am an expert in electronics, computer programming,

and robotics. After graduating from college with a degree in

electronics, I repaired T.V.s, Radios and Computers. I've built

computers from the ground up. I have several degrees and certificates

in electronics and programming.

When I was young, I was the right hand assistant to a government

licensed powder monkey who taught me his expertise. We worked all

around Washington State contracting jobs in detonating explosives

with fused and electric blasting caps.

One last comment about Homemade Explosives! The Federal [BATF,

F.B.I. etc.] government claims dozens of young macho men get killed

or maimed each year following the advice in the above books on

making explosives and blasting caps using the books I suggest. We

don't know if they got killed or hurt because they were careless or

because the books gave bogus advice!

We have played around experimenting with FFFF black powder and

various sized Nicrome wire to set off various incendiary devices,

so we have a good idea of how to make blasting caps. We have not

tried mixing or using any of the chemicals these books suggest. We

have not tried detonating any homemade blasting caps. IT IS UNLAWFUL!

We have only used military and commercial explosives and blasting caps.

We have had no problems obtaining factory made explosives and blasting caps.

Yet, we are aware those sources will dry up when the N.W.O. takes full control.

If you compare government manuals like U.S. Army "TM 31-210 IMPROVISED

MUNITIONS HANDBOOK" with the books suggested above it appears the authors

know what they are talking about.

Yet, there could be mistakes in those books that could blow-up in your face.

WE ARE NOT SUGGESTING that you try MIXING UP A BATCH

OF HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVES OR MAKING HOMEMADE DETONATORS

because IT IS ILLEGAL AND DANGEROUS. I don't plan on trying to mix a batch

of homemade explosives or making blasting caps. I would have to be powerfully

desperate to resort to something so dangerous.

END OF GUERILLA WARFARE BOOK SECTION

********************* DISGUISE & COUNTERFEIT I.D. ***********

Books like: "Disguise Techniques", by Edmond MacInaugh; "Methods

of Disguise", by John Sample; "How to Disappear Completely and

Never Be Found", by Doug Richmond; are helpful.

Yet, it is better to study books like: "Private Investigation

Training Manual", by William Patterson; "FIND `EM FAST, A private

Investigators's Workbook", by John McCann; "YOU, TOO, CAN FIND

ANYBODY", by Joseph J. Culligan, [This one is one of the best, ISBN Bounty Hunter", by Bob Burton, ISBN 0-87364-578-2, [$16.95], 216

pages. It is better to know the techniques used to find people,

than to study books on how to disappear.

The books in the above two paragraphs give you insight on how to

disappear when government agents are looking for you. In summation:

When you are trying to evade agents hunting you, change your usual

hair color, hair style, dress and appearance as much as you can.

Don't use credit cards. Don't leave paper trails. Don't give for-

warding addresses. Break all contact with friends, relatives, or

loved ones. Don't participate in your usual hobbies, clubs, and

sports. Work under the table without giving Social Security number

[S.S.N.] if you can.

If you are being hunted and they are advertising and showing

pictures of you on the media you are in deep trouble. If I were in

this position and small framed, I would dress as a woman and even

work on a job posing as a woman if I needed some money. If you are

small framed and could pass as a woman you are lucky, because this

is the best disguise you could have.

We have seen cross dressing men on television that looked as

good as some of the best looking women you have ever seen. They

were even able to act, and talk like women. They would fool anyone.

Some of them said they posed as women and worked on jobs as women

for over 15 years without anyone knowing they we re men.

If you are a small framed man, you should ask your sister,

mother, wife or girl friend to help you obtain the proper woman's

clothes, wig, and teach you how to put on makeup, act, talk and

dress like a woman. Then you should keep a set of woman's clothes

in a duffle bag ready for your disguise.

If you are wanted by the government, dressing like a woman would

be the best way possible to evade capture while traveling through

large cities, traveling or driving long distances or hitching a

ride on the way to your retreat. Women get rides better than men.

I would plan this and even obtain new identification posing as a

woman. Then I would practice putting on makeup, dressing, talking

and acting like a woman by going to town and doing things dressed

in feminine dresses as a woman once in a while to stay in practice.

Eighty percent of the men would be able to get away with passing as

a woman if they set their mind to it.

The smaller and better looking you are, the easier it would be.

There are only a few men who are so big or so ugly or with such

heavy beards they would not be able to get away with it. Electro-

lysis to remove face hair is possible, but it is very expensive and

time consuming. About $15.00 per visit to remove 40 hairs. I am

told It takes at least four years of electrolysis to complete the

job. If you want to survive when the crunch comes, forget about

being macho and do anything you can to survive.

The Inverness Deluxe One Touch Home Electrolysis Machine #80006

costs $35.00. It comes with two needles and tweezers. For a heavy

beard it takes about 3 or 4 needles to remove all the mustache hair

on the upper lip.

The mustache and chin have the heaviest concentration of hair on the face.

Needles [#89000] called Replacement Stylet tips cost $12.00 per half dozen

tips. It runs on one small common Eveready nine volt battery. Replacement

Batteries can be obtained anywhere. One battery lasts about long enough to

wipe out the mustache.

For a heavy mustache it takes about 12, 1.5 hour sessions to

completely and permanently remove the mustache. We have tested and

used this electrolysis machine and it works very well. It is all

you will need to remove all the hair on your face or anywhere else

you want to remove hair. Call 1-800-631-0860, 17-10 Willow Street,

Fair Lawn, NJ, 07410.

It would be better to be a live man dressed like a woman than to

be captured and put in a concentration camp to be starved to death.

The Bible says: "For whoever is joined with the living, there is

hope; surely a live dog is better than a dead lion." [Ecclesiastes than a dead macho man.

There are many advantages in obtaining new genuine Social

Security Cards, Driver Licenses and changing your name as often as

you want if you are lucky enough to be able to cross dress and

effectively pass as a woman. Examiners don't question women coming

in for their first driver license from age 16 to 60. But, when men

from 21-60 came in telling us they never had a driver license, we

have a difficult time believing them.

A man can't change his name on a driver license without a court

order, but women can advise the examiner they got married and show

him some phony documents and the examiner will usually give them a

license with a new last name without question.

We had some examiners that were hard cases who wanted tons of

identification for everything, but most examiners are not very

strict. If you are turned down in one town, just go to another town

until some examiner gives you your new license with your new name.

I was a drivers license examiner for several years. I quit in

Yet, it helped convince the examiner you are who you say you are.

If you brought in a Birth Certificate, school diploma, marriage

license, divorce decree, passport, hunting or fishing license, tax

number, car registration, or professional license with your name on

them, they would all be accepted as proof of your identification.

You needed at least three pieces of any of the above identifi-

cation to obtain a duplicate or new license. The birth certificate

it the best identification and it is one of the easiest to fake.

The older you are the easier it is to fake them out with a phony or

altered birth certificate.

No examiner knows or can remember what all the old Washington

State birth certificates and documents or all the various old out

of state birth certificates and documents named above are supposed

to look like. The examiner is pretty much forced to take your word

for it. If you have several documents with the name you want to

assume the examiner will usually issue you a new license. The more

pieces of the above named identification documents you can produce

the more believable you are.

Most of the types of documents listed above are easy to make.

Copy machines work wonders in altering most of them. If on white

paper, just type a new name and address on a white label and put

the label over the old name and address then copying it often works

fine. Computers with color scanners, laser printers and color

printers can make any of the important identification documents

needed to obtain a real Social Security Card and driver license

with a new name. Make them look a little old, stained and crinkled.

The new type birth certificates in Washington State since about scanner and printer. But, the various birth certificates used

before 1965 in Washington State are very easy to change and fake

with a copy machine.

If you want to fake a birth certificate to use in Washington

State don't use one from Washington or any of the adjacent states

or California. It is best to fake an Alaska or Eastern United

States birth certificate to use in Washington State. If the

government doesn't make and keep a copy of the certificate you are

home free.

I am not up to date with what is being done in 1996 by driver

license examiners. Except for teenagers who need Birth Certificates

documented for proof of age and drivers training documented, I have

not known examiners to make a copy of your identification for the

government to keep. Sometimes they would keep out of state driver

licenses.

Most books on changing I.D. are obsolete. It no longer works to

take the identity of a dead person near your age. The only books

worth buying are "COUNTERFEIT I.D. MADE EASY", by Jack Luger and

"Understanding U.S. Identify Documents" by John Q. Newman. We would

advise you to obtain these two books and obtain your new I.D. now.

These books will aid you in making top quality fake identification

needed to obtain a real Social Security Card and Driver License.

If you are clever, you will be able to make top quality fake

identification papers for both new male and female identities for

yourself. Then you would have the best of both worlds as far as

disguise is concerned. You could make fake I.D. for and pay a woman

to apply for a Social Security card under your assumed female identity.

But, she might squeal. So, it might be better for you to

cross dress and apply for the card.

Women over 30 have no trouble obtaining their first Social

Security Card even at age 55. They just say their husbands were

self employed, they never worked out and they had such a big family

they were not required to file an income tax return; but my husband

dumped me for a younger woman. I never needed a Social Security

Card before.

Before about 1969 babies were not required to obtain Social

Security Cards. It is not uncommon for women from 30 to 55 to apply

for their first Social Security Card. It is very uncommon for men.

When you apply for your new Social Security Card under your new

assumed name, pick a name that is often used for both men and women.

When I was an examiner it was not uncommon for both men and

women to have first and middle names like: Connie Lee; Jean;

Jessie Sally; Shirley Gene; Pat Geraldine; Billy Jean; Billy Jo;

Bobbie Jo; Elsie Lynnn; Goldie Lee; Jackie Len; Kerry Lee; Jamie

Jean; Miriam Lynn; Marian Lee; Patty Lee; Robin Joy; Cheryl Lee;

Vivian Lynn; Sammy Alice; Sandy Jean; Nellie Gene; Terry Ann; Lee etc.!

We have seen men with first and middle names like Joyce,

Roberta, Bonnie, Jean, Connie, Lonnie, Denise, Jessie, Sally,

Donna, Martha, Betty, Karen, Gwyn, Cindy, Fay, Betty, Hilda,

Marsha, Alice, Jane, Marie, Linda, Joan, Ann, and Tammy. Often men

would have a common man's first name and a girls middle name.

More than likely the mother wanted some popular great aunt's

name as their son's middle name or the middle name was the maiden

last name of the mother's family which happened to be a name

spelled like a girls first name. Less often a man would have a

common girls first name and a man's middle name.

Once in a while a man would have a girls first and a girls

middle name. Names that are common for both men and women could be

called transsexual names. The reason I am telling you this, is that

when you choose a new name, it would be better to have a name that

both men and women could use. It would be easy to first obtain your

new Social Security number and driver license in your new woman's

transsexual name, then later apply for a duplicate license telling

the driver's license examiner they made a typing error using "F"

rather then "M" in the sex column.

If you were cross dressing in evading the police a transsexual

name would help if you were stopped. You could tell the officer

they made a mistake in the sex column. As far as I know my college

records all have me listed as a female. It was a typing error. I

asked them several times to fix it to no avail.

When I was an examiner, I noticed errors like that were common

when a person has a transsexual name. My first name is Gene. Much

of my mail comes as Ms. or Mrs. Jean Gwinn, because of such errors.

Now that I'm interested in fake I.D., escape and evasion, it would

be better if my first name were spelled Jean.

The only believable way a man could obtain a new Social Security

Card and a first driver's license under a new assumed name would be

to tell the examiner you lived in Alaska where there were no roads.

If they think you were raised up living with the Eskimos, living off

the land and never needed a Social Security number or driver's license

until now, they will usually issue you a new Social Security Number

and Driver's License. KEEP IN MIND THAT USING FAKE I.D. IS

UNLAWFUL IN MOST STATES. We are not advising you to break

the law.

Of course you would need all the fake documents you could muster

to back up your claim. If you told them you were raised and lived

in Canada or some other foreign country where there were no roads,

they would want to see your passport.

Keep phony S.S.N. written down so you don't forget the number.

Only give or use same phony S.S.N. once on one job. Don't use same

number on next job or any job after that. Stay on job with phony

S.S.N. only until end of a quarter. Employers send in Social

Security numbers at the end of each quarter. Don't leave trail to

next or last job. Don't take employment in your usual fields. Don't

mail letters and packages in the State you inhabit. Don't receive

any mail or packages from old friends or relatives.

Investigate about where you can obtain phony Identification that

looks genuine. Phony I.D. making is unlawful so we can't advise you

where to obtain it. Yet, there are lots of places around where it

can be obtained. If you're wanted by the law, never carry I.D. that

gives your true identity. If you're wanted it's better to carry no

I.D., than to carry I.D. giving your true Identity. You lost it!

Never carry two sets of I.D. on your person at the same time. If

you're caught with more than one set of I.D., it will trigger an

alarm. If you're wanted, never give out to employers the S.S.N. or

name on the I.D. you carry on your person. The I.D. you carry on

your person is only for showing to the police if you're stopped.

You don't use this I.D. to show employers. Give employers false

I.D. you don't normally carry on your person.

Vehicles pose real problems when you're wanted by the law or

bugging out! You obviously can't leave your vehicle parked within leave it on roads near or leading to your cache or habitat area. If

they don't have any idea who took it, stolen vehicles could be

abandoned within 10 miles of your cache or habitat, but not on

roads near or leading to your cache or habitat area. If possible,

it's better to use no vehicle when bugging out.

You're very vulnerable when sitting in a vehicle. If you need a

vehicle to bugout because of long distance to your cache or habi-

tat, a small motorcycle or mountain bicycle is best in your last

stage before getting to your cache or habitat.

If possible, have someone you can trust drop you off within a

few miles of your habitat. But, don't let them know you're going to

stay in the area. Make them believe you're going to leave the area

and go on a long journey. It would be wise to cache a small motor-

cycle or mountain bicycle within riding distance of your cache or

habitat.

If you're wanted by the law and forced to steal a vehicle, or

use your vehicle in a long distance bugout operation, it's some-

times helpful to find a vehicle the same model as you're driving

and take the license plates off it, putting them on your vehicle.

Before you do it, take the license plates off some other vehicle to

replace the plates you take off the vehicle of the same model as

your vehicle.

CROSS DRESSING INFO

If you are interested in cross dressing as a female to evade the

government you should start practicing cross dressing now to get it

down pat. It is better to be caught in a dress now when it is

lawful, than to blow your cover through making a mistake when your

life depends on your ability to pass as a woman.

You need to acquire the necessary experience and knowledge you will need to

pass as a woman. Fortunately there are cross dressing organization, books and

magazines you can subscribe to. They are usually eager to get you

in skirts to further their cause. It is the favorite pastime of

cross dressers [CD's] both male and female, to teach men cross

dressing techniques.

If you make the mistake of telling them you are interested in

cross dressing as a survivalist they won't help you or have any-

thing to do with you. If you want their help, You must convince

them you are a woman trapped in a man's body. It is not difficult

to convince them, because they want to believe it.

The cross dressing organizations, books and magazines are able

to show you how to dress, talk, walk, put on makeup, work with

wigs, and mannerisms of a female. They will sell you books and

Videos you can't obtain at the local book store on how to cross

dress and pass as a woman. The Internet is full of free advise.

If their advice is followed, with a little practice, you can

pass as a woman anywhere in public as long as you want, no matter

how ugly, big or masculine you now look. There are lots of big ugly

women in the world. Being big and ugly does attract more attention

to yourself, so to compensate you have to do a better job of acting

and dressing like a female, being more convincing.

Try it as a hobby, you might even have fun in the process seeing

how well you can fool people out in public. Learning how to cross

dress is an important survival skill. The Cross Dressing organi-

zations and magazines we are listing below don't like much contact

with homosexual or bisexuals. In their view, they try to

keep Cross Dressing as non-sexual related clean fun.

The following is what we have learned by doing some research

about Cross Dressers and Transgendered people. We are telling you

what we have learned, so you will be better able to understand

Cross Dressers and Transgendered people. By better understanding

them you are less likely to offend them, enabling you to get their

help so you can become an expert Cross Dresser in a short period of

time.

Without their help and advice it could take you years to master

the survivalist Ninja art of Cross Dressing. Ninjas are masters

when it comes to disguise and deception and there is no better

disguise than Cross Dressing.

After reading CD magazines and comparing them with homosexual

magazines, you will see that there are two distinct groups. One

group contains Cross Dressers [CD's], Trans-Gendered [TG],

Transsexuals [TS] and Transvestites [TV's]. The other group

contains Homosexuals, Lesbians and Bisexuals. Don't get the two

groups confused by stereo-typing. They are two distinct groups with

different interests.

Homosexuals, Lesbians and Bisexuals are interested in sex and

are often perverts with deviant sexual practices. While CD, TG,

TS, and TV's are often not interested in sex, because without male

[Testosterone] hormones they have no sex drive.

Women have a natural average male hormone [Testosterone] level

of about 80. In men the natural or normal male hormone [Testos-

terone] level is from 550 to 1150.

Men with a male hormone level under 300 have little sex drive.

Men with a male hormone level under 80 have no sex drive and can't

perform as men or be macho if their life depended on it.

It is the natural male hormone [Testosterone] in women that gives

women their sex drive.

Regardless of what we Christians would like to believe, through

scientific experiments, modern science has proven beyond any doubt

the fact that men who's brains were bathed in abnormally high

amounts of female hormones while in the womb have the brainsex of a

female. Such men can't help thinking like women and being feminine.

The same is true for women who's brains were bathed in the womb

with abnormally high amounts of male hormones. Such women can't

help thinking like men and being masculine.

This does not invalidate the Bible which tells us that being a

Homosexual is a sin. Being a female in a male body does not justify

deviant sex acts. One can't help being a female in a male body, but

one can abstain from deviant sexual practices. Not abstaining from

such deviant sexual practices is sin.

We all know that some men act more masculine or feminine than

other men. You can't be masculine or macho just because you want to

be masculine or macho. The degree of your masculinity [and how

macho you will be] was predetermined by how much male and female

hormones you were exposed too in your mothers womb.

The more male hormone your brain was exposed to while in the

womb, the more masculine your brain will be. The more masculine

your brain the more macho you can be. Even though you have a male

body, without the masculine brainsex most men will regard you as a wussy.

And technically they are right, because you think like a woman and

there is nothing you can do to change it.

Thus, depending on the degree which your brain was bathed in the

womb by male hormones determines the degree of your brainsex. The

more male hormones your brain was bathed in, the more masculine

your brainsex. Men can have a brainsex anywhere from 100 percent

masculine to 10 percent masculine and 90 percent feminine. Those

who have a brainsex close to 50/50 have a neutral brainsex.

Men who had their brains bathed in slightly abnormal increased

female hormones while in the womb have a brainsex that is not very

masculine to start with. They could have a brainsex that is

anywhere from 60m/40f to 40m/60f which is close to neutral. For

these men a large decrease in male hormones caused by a malfunction

of the Pituitary Gland can trigger them into becoming and acting

feminine after years of being and acting masculine.

Men who have close to a neutral brainsex can be masculine and

macho for years as long as their Pituitary Gland functions normally

causing their testicles to put out normal amounts of male hormones.

But, if the Pituitary Gland or testicles malfunction on these men

causing a large decrease in their testosterone level [below 200],

they are often forced into femininity by their natural female

hormones which then become dominate.

Female hormones are at least twice as dominate as male hormones

on a one to one ratio. All men have natural female hormones put out

by their Pituitary Gland and it does not take much of a loss of

male hormones before the female hormones dominate.

The Pituitary Gland can malfunction in men putting out too much

female hormones causing men to have large lactating breasts like

pregnant women. Medical doctor say no-one can be a man without

male hormones. That is the bottom line!

Men who have a brainsex above 60 percent female and men with

close to neutral brainsex who have more female hormones than male

hormones because of Pituitary Gland malfunctions become very

feminine and are no longer comfortable being men

.

Thus, they often Cross Dress because they are more comfortable passing

as women. Many CD, TG, TS and TV's are men with low or no male hormones

and men who were born with a brainsex mostly female from birth.

Due to the fact that these men have little or no male hormones

their natural female hormones dominate them making them feminine.

Without male hormones you can't be macho or manly even if your life

depends on it. Men born with near neutral brainsex and Pituitary

Gland malfunction are almost forced by nature into skirts. It is

only by the grace of God that they can resist dressing as women.

[Read: "Brain Sex" by Dr. Anne Moir and David Jessel, ISBN

#0-385-31183-4 ($12.95)]

Some CD, TV, TG, and Transsexual men born with a female brainsex

are naturally feminine and not comfortable as men. Thus, they dress

like women which comes natural to them. They are indeed women in a

man's body. They often have little male hormones, having little or

no sex drive. Thus, standard rules about dressing can't fairly be

applied to them.

To be fair and just, we should have sympathy for this type people

because nature forced them into skirts. They were born feminine, it

was no fault of their own that they became feminine. They need our prayers!

We must leave the judging to God in their case. Since acting and being

feminine is natural for them, we can't fairly class them as perverts or sinners.

On the other hand, many CD, TV, Homosexual and Bisexual men are

perverts who have normal male hormones or a male brainsex. They

deliberately and defiantly try to change the way God created them.

They dress as women and act feminine having sex with everything

that walks trying to act like perverts deliberately defying God's

laws which comes natural to them. You can always differentiate this

type from TG's because they have normal and active sex drives. This

type people create their own problems and deserve no justification.

There are CD, TG, TV, and Homosexual men who do have normal male

hormone [testosterone] levels and claim they were born with the

strongly female brainsex. Some of them get their sexual kicks out

of Cross Dressing. Others are homosexual or bisexual having deviant

sex with everything that walks or slithers on the ground. It is

this last group we are justified in loathing.

We question how there could be any possibility of normal men with

normal male hormone [testosterone] levels being forced by nature

into being feminine, wearing dresses. Injecting Male Hormones into

normal woman makes women act masculine and macho. How could normal

men with normal male hormones justify saying they are forced by nature

into being feminine and dressing like women? It is not very likely.

Men who were born with a brainsex more female than male, who also

have abnormally low male hormones through no fault of their own might

be justified in dressing like woman, because it is natural for them.

But they have no excuse for deviant sex acts. Deviant Sex Acts is Sin!

The preceding facts are all you need to know to correctly

understand Cross Dressers. If you keep these facts in mind it will

help you get along with Cross Dressers long enough to learn their

arts and crafts.

They want to transform you into a very feminine, giddy bitch in

feminine dresses, wigs and makeup as soon as they can and they are

not as patient as real women. They have an agenda. They want you to

be just one of the girls! Some of them want you to be a feminist.

Following is a list of CD Magazines and Support Organizations:

TAPESTRY JOURNAL is a cross dressers magazine put out by the

International Foundation for Gender Education [IFGE]. PO Box 229,

Walthham Massachusetts 02154-0229; phone 617-899-2212/894-8340. The

magazine is put out quarterly for $40.00 per year or $12.00 per

issue.

SOCIETY FOR THE SECOND SELF [TRI-ESS], Carol Beecroft, Box 194,

Tulare Ca. 93275; phone 209-688-9246 puts out the "FEMME MIRROR"

You must be heterosexual to become a member. CD's, TG's and TV's

are welcome. Homosexuals and Bisexuals can not join this

organization.

CROSS-TALK: PO Box 944, Woodland hills CA. 91365, phone 818-907-

EMERALD CITY: PO Box 31318, Seattle Wa. 98103, phone 206-284- members.

SALMACIS: Box 1604, Eugene Or. 97440-1604, phone 503-688-4282 is

a CD, Transvestite [TV], Transsexual [TS] feminism group supporting

all those who desire to be women. The feminists are eager to put

all men in skirts.

END OF DISGUISE AND PHONY I.D. SECTION

************************ MARTIAL ARTS **************************

If you're interested in learning the best martial arts on how to

defend yourself, kill and stay out of sight, we suggest: "Secrets

of the Ninja", by Ashida Kim, ISBN 0-87364-234-1, [$16.95], 153

pages; "Ninja Secrets of Invisibility", by Ashida Kim, [$10.00], [$10.00], 93 pages.

"Ninja Hands of Death", by Ashida Kim, ISBN 0-87364-322-4, 148

pages; "Improved Ninja Smoke Devices", [$9.95], 29 pages;

"Invisible Weapons of the Modern Ninja", by Jenks & Brown [$10.00], 110

pages; Three "BLACK MEDICINE" Volumes; volume one ISBN volume three ISBN 0-87364-214-7, 119 pages. The three volumes are

about $10.00 each.

The three best books on defensive martial arts are: "GUGE

GONGJI, Seven Primary Targets to Take Anyone Out of a Fight", by

Master Hei Long, ISBN 0-87364-635-5, [$15.00], 182 pages; "DRAGON'S

TOUCH", by Master Hei Long, [$10.00], 184 pages; "STREET LETHAL,

Unarmed Urban Combat", by Sammy Franco, ISBN 0-87364-517-0, 181

pages. It has lots of good pictures of the moves. In my opinion the

books in this paragraph and the preceding paragraph are the best

martial arts books in the business.

When fighting, keep your balance by keeping both feet firmly

planted on the ground. Don't move off center, off balanced by

leaning too far forward, backward or sideways. Unless you want to

lose your Balls [testicles], don't do any of the fancy jumping

gymnastics like you see on Television.

Never kick over crotch high on your opponent unless you are

hanging onto something or you are unfortunate enough to be on the

ground. You have a big advantage if you can stay on your feet. You

are at a great disadvantage when you are off your feet or laying on

the ground.

Try to stay out of knife fights. If you are unfortunate enough

to be in a knife fight, find a club, pipe, chair, garbage can lid,

or some object you can keep out in front of you. If you can't find

an object to put out in front of you, at least wrap clothing or

something around your hand to keep out in front of you.

If you hold the knife with your right hand, Keep your knife at

your right side waist high close to your body so you can strike

effectively. Hold your knife in your hand at your right side waist

high with the blade pointing away from you, so you don't stab your-

self. Never keep your knife in front of you [nor wave it around in

front of you] unless you are striking. Never keep your knife in

front of you any space of time where someone can kick it out of

your hand. That is all I care to tell you about knife fighting.

Some Ninja or special Forces people will be angry I told you this

much.

Two of the better books on the market on knife fighting are,

"KNIFE FIGHTING A PRACTICAL COURSE", by Michael D. Janich, ISBN picture examples of the way to hold and handle the knife and

tactics. The other book is called: "COLD STEEL", by John Styers,

[$17.95], 180 pages, ISBN 0-87364-024-X.

It has lots of pictures of how to hold and handle the knife and tactics.

They can be obtained at any paramilitary type book store like Delta Press.

The above two books are about as good as anything we have seen

on the current market. But, if you can find books by Col. Rex

Applegate, W.E. Fairbain or E.A. Stkes buy them. These last three

men were the best experts on knife fighting in the business. All

the current books we have seen which are on the market including

the two books listed in the above paragraph have some questionable

knife holding and use tactics quite different than the way Special

Forces train their men.

Many Special Forces people and Ninja laugh at the current knife

Fighting books on the market. The best advise we can give you is to

stay out of knife fights. Run like hell to avoid a knife fight.

Better, yet, blow the knife fighter away with your 357 magnum.

[1999 Note: The best martial arts books I've found are those written by,

Erle Montaigue, on the art of DIM-MAK, death touch techniques,

sold by Paladin Press.]

END OF MARTIAL ARTS SECTION

****************** GENERAL SURVIVAL TIPS **********************

Learn how to start fires with flint, steel and fire horn. Also

learn how to start fires with bow and drill. It may save your life.

We look for bird and rodent nests when we are traveling, and use

them with flint, steel and fire horn. A fire horn is a small 7 inch

cow horn with air hole in small end and grooves in big end. Spark

nest cinders smoldering in fire horn with hand over end of horn,

blow on small end and fire bursts out of big end as you quickly

remove your hand to keep from getting burnt.

Make cotton muzzle loader patches smolder without burning by

putting in small tightly sealed can with one small hole for air to

char cloth. Then when needed strike cinder on charred cloth making

fire with flint and steel.

In the 1990's in most states, you can't live purely off the land

in the summer, much less in the winter! Idaho and Western Montana

are about the only states in which there is enough Forest to hide

and enough game animals and food to live off the land in the

summer.

Those states are too cold to hide and survive living off

the land in the winter. N.W.O. satellites will be able to detect

your wilderness camp fires. They won't be too interested in your

camp fire if its not fire season and there are only one to five

people in your group. If you're in a large group, kill anyone or

get in any serious trouble in your camping county, it's not safe to

have a camp fire.

You might get away with camp fires in caves or underground

burrows, but, they can detect the heat from the smoke. Propane or

gas cook stoves in caves and burrows would be acceptable. Unless

your cave or burrow is very deep and large you could not afford to

heat a small section of your cave or burrow with a fire without

being detected. If you can't heat your shelter in the winter, just

getting a cold could kill you. Thus, you should build an insulated

underground retreat.

Native Americans seldom went sports hunting or fishing. They

seldom used bow and arrows to obtain camp meat. They had large

camps full of people to feed. Thus, they did not have time to stalk

Deer and Elk with bows and arrows. They almost exclusively used

snares, deadfalls and traps to capture game animals and fish.

They used nets and fish traps to catch fish. They drove deer and

elk out onto land points into lakes, rivers, and ocean bays with

canoes full of Indians with hatchets to club the deer while they

were helplessly out in the water. Survivalists understand that

survival is the art of conserving energy.

Never wear camouflage, white, light or bright color clothing in

Guerilla warfare situations, or any time you might be at risk or

hunted by the N.W.O., because white, light or bright colors are

easy to see, standing out like a sore thumb. You might as well burn

your hunter blaze orange hats and jackets. Camouflage attracts too

much attention and advertises you are a terrorist.

Camouflage looks threatening and intimidates the public. Any

Militia member who wears camouflage is brain dead, and brainwashed

by military men who have been spoiled and pampered by big brother.

Only big brother's forces can afford to be arrogant enough to wear

camouflage.

In Guerilla warfare, camouflage will get you killed when you

need to blend in with the public without attracting attention to

yourself. Always wear Ninja dark brown, black, or dark green

clothing so that you are difficult to see and blend in like a

chameleon attracting no attention to yourself. Dark colors allow

you to stalk around at night unseen. The only exception is when

snow is on the ground, then white might be somewhat acceptable out

in the wild.

If possible travel cross country at night. If no-one is chasing

you, the slower and more cautiously you travel the better.

Remember, if you break a leg or sprain an ankle you're dead. The

slower and more cautiously you travel the less you will be

detected. Observe how slowly and silently deer walk around no

matter where they are!

If it Is too dark to travel at night, stay out of openings,

travel around the edge of fields slowly like a deer staying out of

sight. Use the terrain and timber like a coyote staying out of the

sight of houses, helicopters and people. Study "SECRETS OF THE

NINJA", by Ashida Kim, ISBN 0-87364-234-1, [$16.95], 153 pages.

"Ninja Secrets of Invisibility", by Ashida Kim, [$10.00], 120

pages.

In a survival situation, most of you won't survive living off

the land, unless you camp near a large swamp full of cattails and

rustle cattle or poach deer for meat. Ranchers take a dim view

against cattle rustlers! If you rustle many cattle or leave evidence

in a given area, the ranchers will justly hang you!

The large corm [Bulb] on the root of Cattails and Wapato

[Sagittaria Latifolia] are like a potato. Before eating Cattail or

Wapato, make sure there is no poisonous Water Hemlock [Ciruta

Maculata] plant growing near the Cattail or Wapato you want to eat.

Water Hemlock plant has no association with the Hemlock tree. Water

Hemlock plant growing within a few feet of your Cattail or Wapato

could contaminate the corm. Water Hemlock plant is deadly poison.

Hemlock tree inner bark is edible.

You will need a spade or shovel to dig up the corm on Cattail or Wapato.

When you pull up the Cattail plant the corm breaks off. Make sure to have

a Glock spade in/on your bugout bag.

Typha Latifolia or Typha Angustifolia Cattail use: All species

of this genus bear edible roots containing a core of almost pure

starch, as much as corn, in fact, and with less fat. The roots may

be boiled or roasted, or dried and then ground into meal or flour.

For white flour, dig roots from fall through early spring. Wash and

peel roots, crush cores thoroughly in containers of water, and

strain out fiber. Wash resulting starch several times, letting it

settle and carefully pour off water after each washing. Dry tho-

roughly for storage or use wet.

Bread may be made from the pollen and the young plant shoots are

good raw or cooked. As pollen ripens, shake and rub it off stalks

into container. Sift through fine screen to remove nonpollen

materials. Substitute for part of flour in muffin, fritter or

pancake batter.

Pioneers once used the leaves for caulking barrels and making

rush bottomed furniture. Indians used cattail down in dressings for

wounds, in padding cradles, and both Indians and whites used it for

stuffing pillows. Peel away tough leafy layers of young plant

shoots to the tender edible core.

This Cossack Asparagus is excellent raw, eaten like celery, or

sliced into salad or simmer about 10 min. In early spring, dig up

roots to locate small pointed dormant sprouts at ends of roots.

Sprouts are edible raw or cooked.

Later in the year remove green bloom spikes that look like a

corn cob or wiener while still in papery sheaths before pollen

spikes ripen. Boil green spikes in slightly salted water until

tender. Eat like corn on the cob, or scrape buds from cores for

corn casserole.

To conserve the species, except for experiments, resist using

cattails or Wapato before the Mark of The Beast. To keep the species

abundant, harvest cattails only where old stalks are abundant.

Poisonous cattail look-alikes: Stalks and roots of wild Iris

species including Yellow Flag, and Blue Flag. Wild Iris pictures

are in: "Wild Edible Plants", by Kirk, page 171, and "Peterson

Field Guides, EDIBLE WILD PLANTS", by Lee Peterson, page 158.

During the mark of the beast, the N.W.O. will be closely keeping

tabs on cattail or Wapato patches. This is another poisonous

aspect.

We strongly suggest that all White Israelite Christians move to

Idaho, Oregon, Washington, Western Montana or British Columbia. You

will have a much better chance surviving the Mark of the Beast in

those Pacific Northwest States. The Pacific Northwest is truly

Israel's last stand. The jungle like vegetation and forests in

Western Washington are ideal for guerrilla warfare. Fish and game

are somewhat depleted in Western Washington. But, there are lots of

Muskrat and Beaver.

Open country will be under control of the N.W.O., thus, your

best chance of survival will be in regions of those states where

there are forests where Guerilla warfare can safely be conducted.

You will also have a better chance where there are lots of Christ-

ian Israel people and more public support to help assist you with

safe houses etcetera. You won't have much of a chance in states

where there are large numbers of pre-Adamics who tend to be dumb

enough to support socialism, communism and N.W.O. propaganda.

You will have a much better chance surviving the mark of the

beast if you get out of the cities into rural districts where you

can obtain homes with at least one acre of land for a garden or be

near forested areas. It will be much easier to trap small game

animals and acquire meat in forests.

If civil war comes, the most likely scenario is that the govern-

ment will collapse and dozens of armed factions will run around

like currently in Beirut Lebanon killing and robbing each other for

food, fuel, ammunition, drinking water and supplies. Thus, you must

have caches, be armed and have plenty of ammunition to defend your

supplies. Guns will be somewhat easy to get, but, ammunition will

be hard to acquire. So stock up extra heavy on ammunition and don't

be tempted to buy too many guns. Ammunition will be a major barter

item.

The Rambo movies, and several other war movies were made about

Col. Bo Gritz escapades. Col. James Bo Gritz in his book: "Called

to Serve", tells how he took some M16 assault rifles as a gift to a

guerilla warfare unit in Cambodia while he was searching for

M.I.A.'s. The guerilla war general laughed and showed Col. Bo Gritz

several new M16 rifles in their possession and said they were

useless because they only had three to five rounds of ammunition

for each warrior and no ammunition for an M16.

The General said he turned soldiers away because he had no

ammunition for them to fight with. The general said he had more

rifles and men than he knew what to do with, but no ammunition to

fight with. Col. Gritz was embarrassed and apologized for not being

better informed about guerilla warfare without the aid of big

brother. We will have the same problem when we go against the

N.W.O. and big brother. Ammunition is the key to victory.

I.C.E. Ninja seldom use guns for hunting or killing, they make

too much noise. I.C.E. Ninja improvise using what is available,

swords, poison, snares, primitive traps to hightech devices, bombs,

etcetera. You won't find I.C.E. Ninja joining or associating with

Militias. They are warriors who usually fight alone or fight

alongside the few highly experienced Ninja warriors. They won't

fight alongside Militias because it's dangerous to associate with

groups.

People talk too much. It's dangerous for others to know your

deeds, and plans. Secrecy is the Ninja's strength. I.C.E. Ninja do

support the Militia in their own way. They will never identify

themselves as being I.C.E. Ninja.

Much of the bugout bag and retreat cache items like knives,

axes, Glock Spade, water filters, Gerber fire Striker, and

Leatherman, can be acquired at the Cutlery Shop 1-800-231-1272, can be obtained from Delta Press, 1-800-852-4445, PO Box 1625 Dept. Paladin Press PO Box 1307, Boulder, Co. 80306, 1-800-392-2400.

Many of the items like the Dutch Oven, hardware, sporting,

camping, and survival items in this appendix can be obtained from

Cabela's 812-13th Avenue, Sidney, Nebraska 69160; 1-800-237-4444

open 24 hours a day. Fax 1-800-496-6329. Tom Brown books, flower,

and tree books can be obtained at B. Dalton Books, S.C.West or most

major book stores.

Almost all the books and supplies in this survival appendix can

be obtained from "THE SURVIVAL CENTER" [S.C West], PO BOX 234

McKenna, Washington 98558, 1-800-321-2990. Ask for their catalog.

They have in stock almost all the books we have discussed in this

book. In my opinion they cater to New Age Philosophy Survi-

valists. But, they are not hostile to Christians. They are very

helpful in assisting you in your survival needs.

They are located just a few miles out of Yelm Washington. From

Yelm head for Mckenna and about a mile out of Yelm you get to Bald

Hills road. Go down Bald Hills road to the first cross road where

Vail road crosses Bald Hill road. Turn left on Vail road. Go down

Vail road about 1/2 mile and turn right on Cook road. Go down Cook

road until you see Dan Cook Street. Go past Dan Cook Street and

take second driveway on right. The sign says S.C. WEST.

This book was written because many Christian Identity people

wanted some guidance on survival and living off the land. It was

written because Christian Identity people were interested in how to

form their own Christian militias and conduct raids against big

brother if needed.

This book was originally written to be an appendix in my

Christian book called "Genesis Cycles", but the appendix grew so

large, I was forced to put it in a book all by itself. Since this

appendix or book will circulate outside my book "Genesis Cycles",

please understand that an Israelite is not a Jew. Modern day Jews

do not descend from the tribes of Israel nor from the tribe of

Judah. Thus, when we say Israelite Christian we mean white

Christian Identity Israelites.

We would advise you to buy the book called "SEED TO SEED" by

Suzanne Ashworth, 222 pages [1991, $20.00] ISBN 0-9613977-7-2. And

"Saving Seeds" [$9.95] These books tell you which seeds to save and

how to propagate, preserve and store pure non-hybrid heirloom seeds

for future generations. These two books are a must if you want your

family to survive.

We would advise growing small ten foot square patches of corn,

squash, carrots, hemp, potatoes, cabbage and apple trees near your

summer shelters for food to store through the winter. These crops

keep well by just burying them in the ground in baskets.

Use cabbage for sauerkraut. Hemp is used for twine, rope, clothes,

blankets, edible seeds [sprouts]. Hemp [marijuana] seeds have more

protein pound for pound than meat. The crushed seeds make lamp and

cooking oil.

The seeds can be ground, soaked or crushed for their oil. The

seeds can be ground into flour to make hotcakes and bread. Hemp

butter puts peanut butter to shame. Grind hemp seeds to make this

butter. Hemp seed and its oil contain no psychoactive properties.

Hemp plants make good insulation and baskets.

Potatoes were the first domestic plant to be adopted by the

Northwest coast American Indians to supplement their dwindling

resources after the coming of the white man. After seeing and using

the small one inch Camas root corms and other small corm roots the

native Americans were dependant on, we can understand why they

quickly adopted potatoes as their main crop. We should do the same.

Plant your potatoes near the edge of swamps.

Purchase and cache about three MULTI-Fuel one burner cook stoves

which burn kerosene and diesel from "THE SURVIVAL CENTER' near

Yelm. Also buy camp stoves that burn unleaded gas. The Multi-Fuel

Kerosene-diesel stove sells for $64.95 each. Buy and cache about

three Duel-Fuel Lanterns from "THE SURVIVAL CENTER". The duel fuel

lantern burns either Coleman Fuel or unleaded gas. The Lanterns

sell for $53.50 each.

Buy one SP-2... 2 Watt deep cycle Solar Battery Charger unit and

a couple of good high Amp-Hour 12 volt car Batteries for your

underground retreat. The P2-2... 2 Watt Solar power unit only costs

$99.00. The 12 volt batteries cost about $80.00 each. Hook the

batteries up in parallel so they only put out 12 volts. Hooking

them in series would cause 24 volts burning out your 12 volt

appliances.

[1999 Note, Obtain at least one small 3 cell pin-light from

the C. Crane Company as advertised by Art Bell. It has 3

L.E.D.s for light bulbs and in normal use one set of AA batteries

will last for two years. Go to Art Bells web site Homepage and

search for the C. Crane Company. Sold, 3 for $100.00]

Make sure your teeth are in good shape before you try to live

off the land. Make sure to cache plenty of tooth paste and tooth

brushes or you will be very sorry.

Make sure to brush your teeth twice per day, it is very important for

survival. Cache some belt buckles and lots of large stitching needles.

Also keep your tetanus shots up to date. This is very important.

In the Eastern United States trappers are selling the beaver

furs and the beaver meat. Beaver meat sells for a high price

because it is a delicacy in restaurants. Beaver meat is very fine

eating for humans. Beavers and Muskrats are vegetarians so they are

as safe to eat as rabbits. Beaver dams are easy to find, thus,

Beaver will be decimated within two years after the crunch. Muskrat

are hard for amateurs to find. It would be difficult to wipe out

Muskrat. The Beaver hind quarters and the upper half of the tail

under the fur are choice eating.

The lower half of Beaver tail is full of fat. Render the fat for

lamp and cooking oil. The fat could be rendered and used for making

pemmican by pounding 5 pounds of dried meat into fine powder and

mixing it with about 4 pounds of rendered fat and 1 pound of dried

berries. This mixture was packed into rawhide bags, or lengths of

cleaned animal intestine where it would keep indefinitely. Thus,

obtain several good books on trapping Beaver and Muskrats.

End of General Survival Tips

BEST PROFESSIONAL TRAPPING BOOKS

"TRAPPING and Handling Beaver and Otter, 2nd. Edition", by

Dennis Bushey, 45 pages, $4.99 is a good book. "BEAVER & OTTER TRAPPING"

by, Charles Dobbins, [$9.95], is the best book on Beaver and otter

trapping. Charles Dobbins Beaver trapping Video is great. His book

"Mink Trapping Techniques" is one of the best books on Mink

trapping.

"Open Water Beaver Trapping", by Fred A. Lawrence, 1978, is of

interest. Fred lived in Snoqualmie Washington when he wrote the

book. 52 pages, lots of pictures and good information, $10.00. It

can be obtained from Sterling Fur & Tool Co. 11268C Frick Rd., Sterling,

Ohio 44276 phone 216-939-3763, Fax 216-939-5135. Most of the

trapping books, traps, parts, equipment and trapping supplies in my

book can be obtained from Sterling Fur & Tool company. Ask for free

catalog.

"MUSKRAT TRAPPING", by Russ Carman, $4.99, is one of the best

books on Muskrat trapping. Cronks Scientific Muskrat Trapping" by

Oscar E. Cronk, 108 pages, $8.00 is good. "A Guide to Trapping

Mink-Raccon-Fox-Opossum", by Nick Wyshinski, $3.00, 40 small pages

is a good little book.

"BEAVER BEHAVIOR" by Mollell Allred, 110 pages ISBN 0-87961- Beaver. Since Beaver is one of the best survivalist meats available

it would pay to read this book. The book is less then $10.00.

"ADJUSTMENT OF LEG HOLD TRAPS, updated, for greater Profit", by

Charles Dobbins, $8.95, 86 pages is a must if you plan on using

steel leg hold traps.

The problem with using steel traps is the price of the traps.

Under survival conditions you will loose many traps to other

survivalists, anti-trapping people and game wardens. Thus, it is

imperative you learn how to properly make and use snares.

The very best professional snaring book on the market is:

"PRACTICAL SNARE METHODS", by Slim Pedersen, 68 pages, $12.00,

obtained from Fox Hollow Trappers Supply HC-1 Afton Road, Marble

Hill, Georga 30148, (702) 265-3749, ask for free catalog. They have

most of the trapping books listed in my book.

Some of the best snare books on the market used by professional Trappers

are: "DYNAMITE Snares & Snaring", by Tom Krause, $9.95, 80 pages, it is

one of the best books on snaring. "Grawe's SNARING METHODS Vol. "Grawe's RACCOON Trapping & Snaring Methods", by A.M. Grawe, $9.95, 44

pages is another excellent book. Write to A.M. Grawe Box 704

Wahpeton, North Dakota 58075, Phone 218-643-3292. "Snares & Snaring", by

Raymond Thompson, [$8.99], 59 pages, is another excellent book on

professional snaring.

Buy the one hour Snaring Video by Rahn Martin & Brian Poncelet of Brahn

Trapping Box 36 Meacham, Sask. SOK 2VO Canada, PHONE (306)944-2753.

The video is about $35.00. It will give you footage on setting

snares for Coyotes. It also covers making snares, skinning and

fleshing Coyotes. They also have a video on professional cage

trapping, skinning and fleshing Muskrat.

An important one hour Video is called: "Beaver Skinning & Fleshing" by

Wayne Freebersyser, $29.95. He also sells the best adjustable

Beaver Hoops on the market for stretching Beaver. His business is

Custom Mfg. HCR 60, Box 87A California, Mo. 65018; phone (314) and fleshing Beaver.

Another important one hour Video is "THE TWO MINUTE COYOTE" by

Finley Furs, Route 1, Box 45, Claude, Tx. 79019, phone (806) Raccoon for the fur market. It sells for about $34.95, pus $2.00

Shipping. It is well worth the money. Knowing how to properly skin

and flesh furs to barter on the Fur Market will be an asset to

survivalists. Bartering Furs is one way to obtain all the supplies

you will need after the crunch comes.

Trying to learn to skin and flesh fur bearing animals for the

fur market by reading books is very difficult. It is best to obtain

Videos on skinning and fleshing. The same is somewhat true when it

comes to learning trapping. You should at least buy all of Charles

Dobbins Videos on trapping. Then you will understand what you are

reading when you read any trapping book on the market. Charles

Dobbins was admitted into the "Trappers Hall of Fame" by the

National Trappers Association in 1995. He has been a professional

trapper for over 60 years. He always answers our letters when we

ask him questions. He is very dedicated to trapping.

The first trapping book you should buy is a general trapping

book called: "TRAPPING NORTH AMERICAN FURBEARERS",

by S. Stanley Hawbaker, [$7.99], 352 pages. This is a good book for serious

trappers giving an overview of most of the equipment, supplies and

information a trapper needs to know. Hawbaker says a part time

trapper needs at least 108 steel traps and tells why. He tells why

a professional trappers needs at least 250 steel traps. Nowadays a

part time trapper needs 180 steel traps and a professional trapper

needs at least 600 steel traps.

Since the survivalist needs to use furs fo r clothing, rugs,

blankets and bartering, he needs to know how to skin, process and

prepare furs for barter. He also needs to know how to trap and

process raccoon, mink, otter, skunk, martin, fisher, fox, wolves,

coyotes, bobcat, cougars and bear. Many of these animals are not

general good for eating, but we need their furs.

When in a survival situation resources will be scarce and

predators compete with you for the few precious edible grouse,

rabbits, pheasant, muskrat, beaver, deer, elk, caribou, and moose,

you need to survive. Thus, survivalists need to wipe out most of

their competition in their hunting and trapping areas. You will

need traps, snares and the knowledge provided in the following

books in this section to do the job effectively.

"TRAPPING & HANDLING AMERICAN RAW FURS", by C.O.

Lippert, $5.00, 80 pages, has an excellent section on how to handle and process furs

to barter or sell. His other book called: "MODERN TRAPPING & FUR BUYING",

is also useful to understand what a good quality, well processed

fur looks like. He also deals with the process. "COYOTE FEVER,

revised", by Ray Milligan, $9.95, 80 pages is an excellent books on

coyote trapping techniques.

"DYNAMITE PREDATOR TRAPPING", by Tom Krause, $11.95, 72 pages in

also an excellent book on professional predator trapping. His other

book called: "DYNAMITE MINK & COON TRAPPING", $9.95, 64 pages is another

excellent book. Write to Tom Krause PO Box 513, Riverton, Wy.

"THE COMPLETE COONER, revised", by Ray Milligan, $8.95, 48 pages

is one of the best books on trapping and snaring raccoon. "ON THE

PROWL FOR BOBCATS", by Ray Milligan, $9.95, 64 pages, is one of the

best books on trapping bobcats. Write Ray Milligan Rt. 14, Box on some of Ray's latest books, but he moves around a lot, so I

don't know if it is current.

"BOBCAT TRAPPER'S GUIDE", by Mitchell S. Ricketts, $7.95, 116

pages is an excellent book on trapping bobcats. He has a very good

section about the habits, food and understanding of bobcats. "DIRT

HOLE AND ITS VARIATIONS", by Charlie Dobbins in both book and Video

are excellent. Video $32.50, book about $8.00. "VARIATIONS OF THE

FLAT SET", by Charlie Dobbins, in both book and video are excell-

ent. 2 hour video $34.95, 78 page book $12.00 post paid. His Water

Trapping Video and book are excellent. His trap modification books

and Videos are excellent.

Write to Charles Dobbins PO Box 7082, Canton, Oh. 44705. Charles

Dobbins has about 7 books and 5 videos on the market. He sold all 7

books and 5 videos to me in a group for $250.00. We would strongly

advise you to buy all of Charles Dobbins books and Videos. He is

one of the very best authors on trapping.

"COMPLETE BOBCAT TRAPPING METHODS" by Slim Pedersen, 62 pages,

$20.00 is the best Bobcat trapping book on the market. His book

called: "PREDATOR TRAPPING PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS, II" 84 pages,

$12.00 is one of the best predator trapping books on the market.

All the above books in this professional trapping book section

have many B&W pictures showing how to fix traps or snares and set them.

The above books are top of the line books. If you can't contact the

authors, you can get most of these book from any of the trapping

supply dealers we have listed or from R-P OUTDOORS, PO Box 1170

Mansfield, La. 71052; 800-762-2706; Fax 318-872-8824. Ask for their

large catalog.

The above trapping books are all you will need. I have the

following trapping books, though they are good references on

techniques they are bit out of date because traps have gone up in

price and laws have changed so much the old traps and equipment

they suggest are either no longer available or too expensive for

trappers to buy and use.

The following books are good for reference: "Wolf & Coyote Trapping",

by O.L. Butcher, $4.99, 24 pages. "Professional Cat Trapping", by

O.L. Butcher, 1963, $4.99, 32 pages. "The Profession- al Beaver and

Otter Trapper", by O.L. Butcher, $4.99, 36 pages. "TRAPPERS GUIDE",

by O.L. Butcher, $4.99, 100 small pages. O.L. Butcher was a trapper

for 70 years and one of the first trappers to do lots of writing.

"BEAVER & OTTER TRAPPING", 2nd. Edition, by S. Stanley Hawbaker, 1949,

$3.99, 35 small pages. "HAWBAKER'S SUPREME FOX & COYOTE TRAPPING METHODS",

revised Edition $4.99, 1969, 40 small pages. "RACCOON TRAPPING", pages. Hawbaker was a trapper (God only knows for how many years)

and was also one of the early pioneers in writing about trapping.

The only earlier giant trapping book authors I know were E.N.

Woodcock and Stanley Harding. E.N. Woodcock wrote, "FIFTY YEARS a

HUNTER and TRAPPER", 318 pages, published in H.T.T. magazine from wrote "THE AMATEUR TRAPPER and TRAP-MAKERS' GUIDE", 134 pages,

published in 1903. Camp & Trail Methods. I've had a copy of those books

for over 40 years. Those books inspired me into doing some trapping

when I was young. Sterling Fur & Tool Co. sales these books and has the

best supply of Trap replacement parts.

************************ NEEDED TRAPS & SNARES ******************

Experts say there is not a big difference in the holding power

of regular #3 and #4 traps. Regular #4 and #5 traps are selling for

$220.00 to $299.00 per dozen. The #5 steel leg traps with 7.5 inch

Jaw Spread and Offset Jaws are the best lawful Wolf and Beaver

traps. Beaver have big back feet and steel leg traps with 8-9 inch

Jaw spread and Offset Jaws would be best. Yet, steel leg traps

bigger than 7.5 inch Jaw spread are unlawful in most states

including Washington State.

Trapper can't afford to be losing $18-$40 dollar steel leg traps

to anti-trapping buffs and thieves. Because of this in 1995 most

modern professional trapper are buying new fully Modified Bridger

#3 Offset four coiled, coil spring traps with 6.5 inch Jaws which

sell for about $155.00 per dozen [$13.50 each]. Most trappers are

modifying their 2 coiled, coil spring traps to be four coil spring

traps making them about as good as the $30.00, four coiled, coil

spring sterling MJ600 Wolf trap which is one of the best Wolf and

Beaver traps on the market.

At this writing [12-30-1995] the only steel traps we would

recommend are as follows: Obtain at least 144 steel traps: Buy 12,

Victor #1 1/2 Single Long Spring Traps [$69.00 dozen]. Buy 12

Bridger #1.65 coil spring traps [$64.00 dozen]. The above traps are

for Muskrat, Mink, Raccoon and Fox trapping. Buy 12 #110 Magnum

B.M.I. brand Conibear type body traps [$39.00 dozen] for Muskrat

and Mink trapping. Buy 12 #220 regular BMI brand Conibear type body

traps for Raccoon, Possum, Bobcat, small beaver, small coyotes and

midsize animals.

Buy one dozen Bridger #2 two coiled, coil spring, Offset Jaw

traps [$79.00 dozen]. Buy one dozen Bridger #2 Offset Jaw, four

coiled, coil spring traps [$91.00 dozen]. You can buy four coil

spring kits [$12.00 per dozen] to modify your two coiled Bridger #2

coil spring traps making them Bridger #2 four coiled, coil spring

traps.

The Bridger #2 four coiled, coil spring traps with Offset Jaws

are about as good as most regular number #3 two coiled, coil spring

traps. Make sure to weld number 9 wire on both Jaws laminating the

Jaws making them wider before using four coiled traps or they will

damage or break the feet or legs on animals. When legs are broken

animals chew their legs off and escape.

Coil spring traps are faster than long spring traps. Bobcat are

often too fast for longspring traps. The Bridger #2 two coiled,

coil spring traps are for trapping Raccoon, Possum, Fox, Bobcat,

small beaver, small coyotes and midsize animals. When made stronger

with 4 coils and added base plate these Bridger #2 coil spring

traps are for trapping Big Coyote, Bobcat, Otter and small Beaver.

Unless fully submerged steel leg Traps #3 size and larger must have

Offset Jaws or at least have 3/16th inch air gap when trap is

sprung closed to be legal in Washington State.

Buy three dozen fully modified Bridger #3 four coiled, coil

spring traps with #9 wire laminated Offset Jaws and extra D ring

base plates with three swivels on 18 inches of #2 machine chain.

They have 6.5 inch Jaw spread and fully modified as described above

sell for $13.50 each. They are the best buy on the market. They are

the most versatile trap on the market. You can successfully trap

any and all fur bearing animal from Muskrat and Mink to Wolves and

Beaver with this trap. They are really #4 size square jawed traps

which were misnamed as #3 traps.

If I were allowed only one type and size trap for trapping

everything it would be the fully Modified Bridger #3 four coiled,

coil spring trap. My second choice would be the fully Modified

Bridger #2 four coiled, coil spring trap with laminated jaws and

extra base plate with D ring, triple swiveled with 18 inches of #2

machine chain. Charles Dobbins, Slim Pedersen and all top trappers

agree that these two traps are the best buy and the best two steel

leg traps on the market in 1995-1996.

Some of the trapping books say square jaw traps are bad because

they pinch legs. This is B.S., there is nothing wrong with square

jaw traps! Charles Dobbins and other top trappers better than

Charles Dobbins who I don't want to name assure me that these

square Jaw #3 Bridger traps and all the above named Bridger traps

are the best buy on the market.

Buy 6 #330 magnum BMI brand Conibear type body traps [6 for

$89.00]. Most trappers agree that the 330 body traps are one of the

best Beaver traps on the market. The only traps that will rival

them as top Beaver traps are the #5 leg traps. In most states

including Washington State #330 body traps must be fully submerged

under water to be legal. Thus, you can't use them as land traps.

Buy 24 #3 double longspring [DLS] Victor brand traps [$160.00

dozen] for Beaver, Otter, and Coyote trapping. Buy 12 with Offset

Jaw and 12 without Offset Jaws. Offset Jaws are not good for the

small feet and legs of Otter. Offset Jaws are best on large traps

for most trapping applications. Non-Offset traps can be welded to

make them Offset.

Weld on extra base plate with D ring on bottom of DLS traps and

put 4 feet of 325 lb test No. 2 or 3 Machine Chain with three swi-

vels on each Double Long Spring trap. Weld number nine wire to top

of Jaws to laminate Jaws. Then if you can afford it buy 6 Bridger

#5 double long spring Offset Jaw traps [6 for $110.00]. These big

traps are good for large wolf, large beaver, cougar, coyote, wild

pigs, and small bear.

The above assortment or combination of steel traps will give you

the best versatility on the trap line. You will have the correct

trap for any occasion. Most professional trappers would not buy any

of the long spring traps except for the #5 DLS. Double Long Spring

traps are expensive, bulky and heavy, not well suited for modern

vehicle long line trapping. Coil springs break and coils get weak

needing replaced every two or three years on coil spring traps.

Where are you going to obtain new Coil Springs when the crunch

or mark of the beast comes? This is why I took it upon myself

suggesting a few long spring traps. The springs on Long Spring

Traps seldom get too weak to use and they almost never break. Thus,

they would be preferred by many survivalists. Adjust your trap

purchase with this in mind. Body type trap springs hold up good.

The new Minnesota Brand MB 750 four coiled, coil spring Beaver

traps with 7.5 inch jaws are good traps, but I will not recommend

them until they come out with offset lamminated jaws later in 1996.

They are $240 per dozen. They are sold by Minnesota Trapline

Products 6699T 156th Ave. N.W., Pennock, Minnesota 56279; (612) Fur Co. the manufacture of Bridger Traps. They are located at

If you buy any traps that are not on my above list of approved

traps you will probably be very sorry. At the price of traps you

can't afford to make mistakes. The only problem with recommending

traps is that brands of traps come and go so often from the market

that what I recommend today might not be relevant next year.

I bought several Jump traps because jump traps were popular when

I was young. The professionals today tell me to sell the jump traps

because they are too difficult to modify into good holding traps.

They say animal loose is too high with jump traps. I have consulted

with the best professional trappers in the business.

All the experts who know what they are talking about will tell you that all

the traps I have recommended in this survival book are good quality

traps that can be easily modified into top quality traps.

You are probably thinking: "Why do I need so many steel traps

when I can catch one Muskrat a day to eat with a half dozen steel

Muskrat traps and one Beaver a day with a half dozen steel Beaver

traps?" One of the biggest problems trappers have today is people

stealing and destroying their traps. When the crunch comes trap

loss is going to be a major problem.

When you trap as a professional or survival trapper your traps

often get snowed in and you can't reach those traps until spring.

Traps keep br eaking and having problems you need to fix, so you

need twice as many traps as you plan on putting on your trap line.

Steel traps work better than snares except in freezing weather.

In freezing weather snares work better than steel traps. Expert

snare-men would argue those points with me. Coyotes and other

predators compete with you for the scarce small game animals you

want to catch and eat. Thus, you will want to kill all the preda-

tors you can eliminate. No matter how hard you try, you won't be

able to destroy all the predators.

Supplement your steel traps with snares. Buy a dozen of each of

the following described factory made snares. You won't need any

snares under 42 inches unless you are snaring small animals like

rabbits. For Fur Bearing Animals you won't need snares longer than type of snare locks.

The two best death-catch killing type snare locks you will need

are Sure-Locks or Cam-Locks. I like Cam-Locks best. The only re-

leasing live-catch lock you need is the half-dollar sized washer

style releasing lock. All the snare equipment can be obtained from

the Snare Shop who seem to have the best snare material and prices.

You only need three designs of snares with or without snare

swivels with various sized 7x7 galvanized aircraft cable. The only

cable sizes you need for snares are 1/16; 5/64; 3/32 and 1/8 inch

diameter 7x7 galvanized aircraft cable. One thousand feet will make to 5 feet long.

If you were snaring for food only one thousand snares would get

you through the 42 month mark of the beast. But, if you are going

to be a professional trapper bartering your furs you could use up

to one thousand snares per year. Don't buy any 7x19 cable for

snares because it retains the curl or wrap of the real it is wound

onto. 7x19 cable will work, but it is slow and don't work well.

All the above snare locks, swivels, swivel washers and Wammys

are reusable dozens of times. But, the cable and stop ferrules must

be replaced every time you catch a coyote or any predator or deer.

The animals almost always put links in the cable or break cable

strands.

To trap professionally you might need 5 thousand feet of each of

the four sizes of 7x7 cable to get you through the crunch. Each

snare without a swivel in the center takes two stop nuts or

ferrules for each snare. Snares with a swivel in the center take

four stop nuts or ferrules. If you want an adjustable loop on the

stake end of the snare it takes one extra nut for each snare. This

makes a total of 5 stop nuts for each center swiveled snare.

Stop nuts cost about 4 cents each; double ferrules cost 6 cents

each; Snare Swivels cost 15 cents each; Snare Swivel washers cost

about 2 cents each; Wammys cost 9 cents each; Cam-Locks cost from per hundred lot. 7x7 galvanized aircraft cable cost about 6 cents

per foot except for 1/8th inch which cost about 8 cents per foot in

thousand foot lots.

A five foot 3/32 7x7 galvanized aircraft cable snare without a

swivel or adjustable stake end loop only costs 58 cents with a

Sure-Lock; 70 cents with a 32 cent Cam-Lock. Yet, we advise you to

put a swivel on most of your snares, which bumps up the cost 17

cents for the swivel and swivel washer. This brings the cost of a

snare with an stake end swivel and Cam-Lock to 87 cents. We often

like a center swiveled snare which bumps up the cost for two more 4

cent stop nuts. This brings the price of the center swiveled snare

up to 95 cents.

Yet, since you can reuse the lock, snare swivel, swivel washer

and wammy it only costs you 46 cents to rebuild the center swiveled it has caught an animal. When you have a problem with trap thieves

the snare starts to look very attractive to the survivalist.

With no trap thieves the steel trap is more cost effective in

the long run. But, it is not very likely you won't have trouble

with trap thieves. Only by getting back to the most remote places

where there is no people will stop trap thieves. At $13.50 per

Bridger #3 fully modified coil spring trap, it does not take many

trap thieves to break you up in business.

The Wammy is a small spring that fits on your snare close to the

snare head loop which allows you to put a bare #9 or #11 wire in

the Wammy next to the 7x7 cable to hold the snare up in place until

the animal pulls the Wammy out of the #9 or #11 wire releasing the

snare from the holding position. We use a Wammy on most of our

snares.

Our most popular coyote snare is the center swiveled 5 foot 3/32

snare with a 14 inch head loop. The snare only opens up to the

maximum 14 inch head loop before the loop is stooped from expanding

by the center swivel. It take 43 inches of cable on the Cam-Lock

head loop end of the snare between the Cam-Lock and the center

swivel. Then it takes 17 inches of cable [with a Wammy positioned

next to the swivel] from the center swivel to the steel stake by

the time you form the small stake loop.

The three type of snares you will need are the snares with no

swivel often used on a fence lines hooked to the fence; snares with

one swivel positioned on the stake end of the snare; then last and

best the center swiveled snare. Animals don't see the smaller

diameter snare cable as well as they see the larger diameter snare

cable. So, you choose the smallest diameter cable you can get by

with for the animal you want to catch. Your choice of snare lock

depends on whether you want to kill the animal or keep it alive

until you return.

Buy a dozen of each of the three types of snares described in

the above two paragraphs from the Snare Shop as an example of what

they look like and how to build them. Buy a dozen snares of each of

the three types of snare locks we recommend.

Then learn how to make your own snares by useing the factory built

snares as a guideline. They are very simple to make. You can be one brick

short of a load when it comes to brains and still be able to make snares as

good if not better than the factory made snares.

Factory made snares are often not crimped good enough from some

dealers. I trust myself, but you can't trust others to do it right.

After all, they all hire help to make the factory made snares. The

type help you get nowadays is not usually dependable.

Have the Snare Shop use #12.5 Snare Swivels with Swivel Washers

when center swiveling for coyote and fur bearing animals. Use #9

Snare Swivels for fur bearing animals if the Swivel is on the stake

end of the snare. Use #9 Snare Swivels with swivel washers when

center Swiveling deer, elk and wolf snares. Always use #9 snare

swivels when snaring big game.

The above snares can be purchased from A&J CABLE 2001 N.W. 84th St.

Lincoln NE. 68528; 402-470-2772; call after 5:00 PM. You can obtain

all the Snares from: THE SNARE SHOP, 13191 Phoenix, Carroll, Iowa obtained at R-P OUTDOORS PO Box 1170 Mansfield, La. 71052, phone

If you want to kill a deer use 15 foot of 3/32 or 1/8th inch 7x7

galvanized aircraft cable, #9 Snare Swivel and Cam-Lock. If you

want to live-catch deer use 15 foot 3/32 or 1/8th inch diameter 7x7

galvanized aircraft cable with number nine swivel and Half dollar

size washer type live-catch release lock.

We once caught a full grown blacktail deer and killed her dead

in her tracks with 5 feet of 5/64th inch diameter 7x7 galvinized

aircraft cable with a Cam-Lock and number 12.5 center swiveled

snare swivel and 12 inch diameter head loop. It killed the deer so

fast there was almost no struggle. Deer would break 5/64th inch

diameter 7x7 cable if you used a live catch type snare lock.

If we had wanted to catch a deer we would have used 3/32

diameter cable, 18 to 25 inch diameter head loop with the bottom of

the loop two feet off the ground. We would have used a #9 snare

swivel. We can't understand how the deer got her head in a 12 inch

snare loop with the bottom of the loop only 12 imches off the

ground. As far as we know this has only happened one time. We

believe it to be a fluke accident.

Use Swiveled 5 foot snare with Sure-Lock or Cam-Lock with

Support Collar Wammy with #12.5 swivel 7x7 3/32 or 5/64th cable for

fox, coon, coyote, beaver [$12.00 dozen] I like the Cam-Locks best

when I want to kill the animal. Sure-Locks would be my second

choice if I wanted to kill the animal. Don't use 7x7 cable smaller

than 3/32 on predators unless you have a kill pole or brush close

by for the animal to tangle in hanging or strangling itself.

The preceding snare descriptions give you a sampling of most of

the various type and sizes of snares on the market. From these

snares learn how to make your own home made 1/16, 5/64, 3/32, and how to use snares. Snares are really the best choice for

survivalists.

The meat you obtain from those traps and snares will not be

kosher food, but it will keep you alive. The kosher food laws of

Moses were given to us as good health laws. Yet, we are to go by

the spirit of the law, not the letter of the law. The traps will

also keep you supplied with leather cords, clothes, shoes and warm

fur bedding.

You will catch and eat Rabbit, Beaver, Muskrat, Opossum,

Porcupine, Squirrel, Bear, Birds, Fish, Deer, and Elk. You will

trap other critters for bait meat and furs. [The steel traps are

pictured on p. 10 of "FUR, FOOD & SURVIVAL" [1988] by, Emil R. Johnson]

and in "The TRAPPER & Predator Caller" magazine.

Before you buy your steel traps and snares subscribe to "The

TRAPPER & Predator Caller" magazine. It puts out 10 issues a year for

about $17.00 per year. Call 1-800-258-0929 to subscribe or write to

Circulation Dept. ABADPV 700 E. State St. Iola, Wi. 54990-0001. You

need to read a few issues of this magazine before you order your

traps and snares.

R-P OUTDOORS POB 1170, MANSFIELD, LA. 71052; 1-800-762-2706; FAX FUR CO. 15007 Willis Rd., Caldwell, Idaho 83605; 208-459-6894; FAX Hollow Trapping Supply in Georgia and Montgomery Fur Co. in Utah

are good trapping supply dealers. Rigging & Wear POB 331, 1800 E. 3rd.

Ave. Hibbing, Mn 55746, 1-800-5647 is a good place to get snares

with swivels.

It is better to eat long pig than to curse your soul eternally

by accepting the mark of the beast. If you have no choice, but to

eat long pig in order to survive, there is not sin in it. We hope

it doesn't come to the point we are forced to eat long pig. To

survive, you might be forced to resort to eating long pig before

the mark of the beast is over. [To survivalists, humans are Long

Pigs.] If we are forced into such a horrible thing in order to

survive, Father Yahweh (God) will understand.

To avoid such drastic measures, harken to our wise counsel and

stock up on plenty of traps and food. We would prefer eating our

neighbors dog or cat rather than our neighbor! You will also need

some fish traps.

End of Trap and Snare section

************************ NEEDED TOOL CACHE *********************

You would make life much easier on yourself if you cached in

your retreat cache a Froe to make shakes; Cross Cut Hand Saw for

fire wood and lumber; Cross Cut Saw Setting & Sharpening Kit; regular hand

saw; Curved Draw Shave; Straight Draw Shave; Gouge Adz; Axe;

Hatchet; Drill Brace Offset Hand drill with Drill Brace Bit Set;

Spokeshave; Wood Chisels; Jack Plane; prybars; Cumberland Tomahawk;

hammer; pick, 5 foot steel bar, shovel, garden hoe and rake. Cache

plenty of assorted nails.

You would make hide tanning much easier if you cached a fleshing

knife and skinning knife. It would make leather work in making

buckskin and leather items, clothes, gloves, hats, etcetera much

easier if you cached the tools listed on page 86 of "TAN YOUR

HIDE". Those tools are Shears; Awl; Revolving Punch; Edge Beveler;

Edge Creaser; Modelling Spoon; Needle; and Utility Knife.

We recommend that you put several empty one gallon plastic and

glass jars in your retreat and close proximity caches, so you could

use the jars to grow sprouts. Punch or drill holes in many of the

lids before you cache them. Keep a half pound of Alfalfa seeds in

your bugout bag.

Keep at least ten pounds of Alfalfa seeds in your cache. Sprouts

are very low cost eating. Sprouts are one of the best survival

foods because they are packed with energy.

You could eat well, living for years in the wilderness on nothing but Deer,

Sprouts, Honey, Berries, and Wapato or Cattail Corms. Together, they give

you all the vitamins, carbohydrates and proteins your body needs. The Cattail

Corms are a little stringy and tough. The Indians pounded the Cattail Corms

into a mash and cooked them as mashed potatoes.

A few of the books we named in this small book on survival can

be obtained at used book stores. After checking with your local

used book stores Call Powell's books 1-800-878-7323, Fax 503- have the used book you are looking for. They will send the book to

you for the used price plus $4.00 U.P.S. shipping charges. Buy

several books we have listed at one time to save on shipping. For

large requests they require you to use a Fax or letter.

END OF GENERAL SURVIVAL TIP SECTION

*********************** Vegetable Seed SPROUTS *******************

We read one survival book which said a person can almost sustain

himself on nothing but Alfalfa Sprouts. He said he was out of money

and food one winter except he had some Alfalfa seed. Thus, he star-

ted growing Alfalfa Sprouts to eat. He said Alfalfa Sprouts was all

he had to eat for four months; he survived on them and remained in

good health. From our experience with sprouts, we believe a person

could survive on almost nothing but sprouts and water in a survival

scenario.

We eat lots of Alfalfa, Mung, Azuki Bean, Wheat-Berry, Green

Lentil and Sunflower Sprouts. The grocery Store charges 89 cents

per box for Alfalfa Sprouts. We were eating 5 boxes every 10 days,

so my 76 year old mother started raising her own Alfalfa Sprouts.

At first she bought a one Quart Jar Alfalfa Sprout growing Kit for

about $6.00 from the health food store.

The kit had poor instructions and was a waste of money, not

growing enough sprouts for our use. Hence, mother took one empty

clear plastic one gallon Mustard Jar which had a white plastic lid.

She took a 3/32 drill bit and drilled about 85 to 100 holes in the

plastic lid.

#1 Put a quart of near body temperature water in the one

gallon Jar.

#2 Put seven table spoons of Alfalfa seeds into the one

gallon Jar. Stir the seeds getting them wet, then put the

lid with holes back on the Jar and set the Jar upright in

a dark place for 12 hours.

#3 After the 12 hours, drain the water in the Jar out through

the holes in the plastic lid. Then take the lid off and fill

the gallon Jar half full of cool water. Then put the lid with

holes back on the Jar and drain the water though the holes in

the gallon Jar lid. This rinses and refreshes the seeds.

Fresh 60 to 90 degree water works fine to rinse sprouts.

Yet, 90 degree water works best.

We use tap water from the kitchen sink. Body temperature

water is water which, when touching the skin, you feel no

hot or cold sensation like when you are fixing a bottle

for a baby.

#4 For four days keep the gallon Jar with seeds in a dark place

on its side with the same side down each time and rinse the

seeds as described in step 3 twice per day. We are not very

precise about how much time passes between the two daily

rinsings. Rinsing every 12 hours would be ideal, but not

necessary. All that matters is that you rinse the seeds twice

a day. During the four days keep the Jar moist, but drained

so its never soggy. Always keep the lid holes free from

obstruction so the seeds are ventilated and able to breath.

#5 After the four days, drain the water in the gallon Jar

through the holes in the plastic lid. Then rinse the seeds

again as in step 3. Then drain the water out of the Jar

though the holes in the plastic lid. But, this time drain the

Jar extra well for this is the last rinsing. Then put the

gallon Jar on its side [same side down] out exposed indirect-

ly to the lights in the house.

The light turns the plants green with chloropyll giving them

lots of vitamins. Keep the Sprouts out in the light for two

days maximum. Mother likes one day and I like two days out in

the light. We put the sprouts out in the light about 6

feet directly under two 4 foot flourescent lights. You don't

water the Sprouts when they are out in the light.

#6 Put the Sprouts in the refrigerator because they are ready to

eat. If they are still a little wet, it might be good to

drain them on a towel for an hour so they won't make your

sandwich soggy. If you drained them right in step 5, drain-

ing them on a towel won't be necessary. Sprouts keep in the

refrigerator for about two weeks.

The time frame for growing Sprouts changes a little depending on

how warm it is in your house. In warmer weather they grow a little

faster. The above instructions were given for May through September

in Washington State. We were not heating the house, but the house

temperature went down to about 65 degrees at night, and up to about

END OF SPROUT INSTRUCTIONS

We recommend you buy the book called "THE SPROUTING BOOK" by Ann

Wigmore, 1986, ISBN 0-89529-246-7, [$7.95], 116 pages. It is one of

the best books we know of on growing sprouts. Another excellent

book is called "SPROUTING IT" by Steve Meyerowitz, 223 pages,

[1993, $10.95] ISBN 1-878736-02-7. These are the only sprout books

you need.

I'm the type who eats more meat than I should. I did not like

salads without pieces of meat on them until I started eating sprout

salads. With sprout salads I don't require meat on my salad. The

sprout salad is made of Alfalfa, Mung, Azuki, Wheat-Berry, Green

Lentil, sunflower seeds, lettuce and onion. After eating a large

salad like this, I am not hungry and feel well satisfied.

If you buy Lentil seed for sprouting, buy only Green Lentil

seeds. The Lentil seeds that are other colors won't sprout. All the

sprouts we have listed grow by using the same instructions we gave

for growing Alfalfa Sprouts except we use half gallon jars and less

seed to grow the other sprouts.

We would advise you to cache several pounds of all the above

sprout seeds we have listed. We grew Pinto Bean sprouts using the

above instructions. Pinto Beans sprout nicely but they don't taste

very good. You won't want more than a small hand full of Pinto Bean

Sprouts on a large salad. What I call a large salad, you would call

three large salads. I'm a big fellow!

The best tasting sprouted seeds are first Alfalfa; second, sunflower seeds;

third, Green Lentil; with Mung and Azuki Beans a close forth; and fifth,

Wheat-Berry seeds. Cache accordingly. Most sprouting seeds will keep

about two years.

We are sure you can survive nicely eating Sprouts, Cattails,

Honey, Salt, Pepper and meat you collect with your traps. The inner

bark of Pine, Fir and Hemlock trees, most grass and clover are

edible. It would not be a bad idea to learn honey bee keeping.

END OF SPROUT SECTION

******************* HONEY BEE KEEPING SECTION ****************

Native Americans kept bees for honey and sugar. If you had two

hives of honey bees near your wilderness retreat you would be in

business. Buy a couple of books on bee keeping. Start with

"STARTING RIGHT WITH BEES", by Story publishing co. [32 pages,

$2.95, 1980] and "Practical Beekeeping". Try "THE ART & ADVENTURE OF

BEEKEEPING" by Ormond & Harry Aebi, [184 pages, 1983], ISBN 0-87857-483-2.

"THE QUEEN AND I" by Edward A. Weiss [1978, 204 pages], ISBN Volume #2 on page 32.

You will see that you don't need modern Beekeeping hives and

supers to keep honey Bees. The old timers and Native Americans used

hollow logs and woven baskets for hives and supers. It would not be

a bad idea to obtain volumes one through 6 of the FOXFIRE books.

Foxfire books deal with homestead self-sufficiency arts and crafts

as used by early American Pioneers. One hive or colony of honey

bees can provide from 40 to 100 pounds of raw honey to use or

barter.

END OF BEE KEEPING SECTION

************* AMMUNITION CACHING PROCEDURE ********************

When caching ammunition I use 4 inch PVC Plastic pipe. It is

best to cut the tubes no longer than 12 inches. When you come to

collect the tube, two 12 inch tubes fit nicely in a day pack. After

some trial and error we cut our 4 inch tubes 11 inches long. The 11

inch tubes held 160 rounds of M14-308 ammunition. The 11 inch tube

holds 240 rounds of M16-223 ammunition, 60 rounds of 9mm ammunition

and some stripper clips.

We packed the tubes with ammunition in the boxes they came in if

possible. We put the boxes in zip lock sandwich bags before

inserting them into the tube. We stuffed news paper tightly into

all the nooks and crannies for a tight compact fit. We put the

stripper clips in zip lock baggies. We put the loose ammunition in

zip locked baggies before inserting into the 4 inch tubes.

It may or may not be good to put a desiccant in the tube. Eddie

the Wire says putting a desiccant in a tube with paper will rot the

paper! More than likely stuffing newspaper tightly in the tube

causes the paper to act as a desiccant. The major point is, don't

leave any air space in the tube. Air space causes condensation

[water] to gather in your tube. We generously coat the outer ends

of the PVC tube with PVC Cement and coat the inside of the cap with

PVC Cement when we install the end caps.

After the PVC Cement drys a little we put more PVC Cement in the

seam of the end cap. Then after a few hours we heavily wrap the end

cap seams with 2 inch wide Scotch plastic packaging and shipping

tape. We marked the side and top of the tube with labels telling

what was in the tube. We taped clear shipping tape over the labels

to protect the labels. Taping the seams adds protection against

moisture getting into the tube through the end cap seams.

Then we put the tube and one hack saw blade into a 33 gallon

garbage bag and rolled and wrapped the garbage bag tightly around

the tube and hack saw blade taping the garbage bag tightly around

the tube with the 2 inch wide packaging tape.

We wrapped plastic packaging tape so the entire surface of the

tube, hack saw blade and garbage bag was covered with packaging

tape including the ends. No water can get to the four inch tube

because it is completely sealed in a garbage bag which is complete-

ly sealed in plastic tape. The hack saw blade for opening the tube

keeps fairly dry sealed inside the garbage bag and tape. Tape a

visible label telling what is in the tube on the top end.

This insulates the PVC tube from the outer environment. With

this added insulation we are sure we will not have a condensation

problem. We use a post hole digger to dig down until the tube is

placed vertically about 12 inches below the surface. We use an

extra garbage bag draping it over the top of the sealed tube for

added protection from the environment. Then we cover the tube and

camouflage the hole.

The only way to camouflage the cache is to put the dirt from the

post hole digger on a tarp. Place the first scoop over by itself to

help camouflage the surface. Then dig the hole putting the dirt on

the tarp. After the dirt is filled back in, put the top layer of

dirt you set on the tarp on the top of the hole concealing the hole

making it look like no one dug a hole. Gather up the extra dirt in

the tarp and carry it off a long way from the cache so the extra

dirt is not associated with the cache.

Most books on caching tell you to use 4 inch diameter black ABS

plastic pipe to cache ammunition. The logic behind this is ABS is

much thicker than the white PVC pipe giving it more protection from

condensation. ABS is much tougher to withstand critters trying to

break into the tube. Also you can drive a vehicle over ABS buried

under the ground without damaging it. Yet, we could not afford ABS

end caps.

A 4 inch diameter ten foot long ABS pipe costs $15.00. The ABS

end caps cost $5.00 each. The PVC end caps cost $1.00 each and a 4

inch diameter PVC pipe ten feet long costs $4.00. As you can see

this gets pricey using two end caps for every foot of pipe. I went

through 60 end caps in just a few days. That is why we chose PVC

pipe over ABS pipe.

We think ABS pipe is overkill for caching ammunition. We think

our PVC pipes wrapped in garbage bags and fully taped will work

fine. We have several layers of protection. No critter will want to

eat the ammunition. Even if the tubes had food in them, no smell

would get to the critter to prompt him to chew into the PVC pipe.

[1999 Note, we've had Ammunition cached like this in PCV tubes in

Western Washington for about 5 years now and each time we dig up a tube

it is dry and like new, shooting well. The tubes are fine cached in wet area.]

We have PVC pipe that has been in the ground for 20 years and we

have had no problem with critters chewing into the pipe. The only

precaution is, don't place the PVC pipe where it will be run over

by a vehicle. Be careful handling the pipe. Don't drop it into the

hole, place in the hole carefully.

Place your caches on logged off areas that have been trans-

planted with new trees. Place the cache where you think no new

roads will be built. Thus, you won't have to worry about bull-

dozers and logging operations uncovering your cache.

Don't cache too close to your underground retreat, because retreats can be

detected much easier than well placed caches. Then if your retreat

is discovered your cache is not compromised.

Consolidated Plastics Company Inc. 1-800-362-1000; 8181 Darrow,

Twinsberg, Ohio 44087 sells 550 Desiccant Packets for $83.30;

Eleven mil Plastic tubing rolls and Thermo Impulse Bag Sealers;

packaging tape; plastic bags, containers and 8, 15, 30 and 55

gallon re-sealable DOT and UN approved plastic drums which would be

ideal for caching food and supplies. 8 gallon drums $23.80; 15

gallon $42.60; 30 gallon $62.60; 55 gallon 77.80 each.

They sell anything a person would want for packaging and

shipping. They don't sell ABS or PVC pipe or end caps. Get the PVC

pipe and end caps from your local hardware store. The lowest prices

we found on PVC was Home Depot. The wholesale house was about the

same price as Home Depot.

END OF AMMUNITION CACHING PROCEDURE

*************** UNDERGROUND RETREAT BUILDING SECTION ***********

The major point made by all survival experts is, don't become a

refugee without cached supplies and a retreat to escape to or you

will die. The cache is more important than the retreat. All cached

items are good for barter. When the crunch comes ammunition will

sell for about $20.00 per 5 rounds. Stock up extra rounds for

barter. If you want meager comfort while hiding from the New World

Order [N.W.O.] you need an underground retreat.

In this day and age your retreat should be under at least four

feet of earth. The N.W.O. via satellite and helicopter will be able

to detect heat from your underground retreat if you heat the

underground retreat. Under four feet of earth in Western Washing-

ton your unheated retreat will stay about 50-60 degrees year round.

In cold areas like Montana your retreat should be under 6 feet of

earth. In Montana under 6 feet of dirt, your unheated retreat will

go down as low as 40 degrees in the winter.

While building your retreat, dump and hide the lumber and items

to build your retreat near your retreat then park your truck down

the road a few miles from your retreat while you are packing

supplies to your retreat and building your retreat. Ride a bicycle

back and forth from your truck to your dump site and hide it.

This gives your retreat added security. We would advise building

an 8x12 or 10 by 12 foot underground building made of 2x6 studs [or walls sitting on top of 60 percent pressure treated 4x6 foundation.

We would put metal siding on the walls and roof. We would put 6

inches of modern R19 insulation on the walls and roof.

The floor could be dirt, rug, fur, linoleum, wood or tarp. It

would be best to put 2 inch thick Polystyrene Styrofoam insulation

under the floor. Then a Kerosene, Propane, or unleaded gas lantern

would be enough to heat and light the underground retreat. I know

from experience a Coleman double mantle propane or unleaded gas

lantern would heat it. The propane lantern runs 24 hours a day for

a week on 5 gallon bottle. With such low heat requirements we doubt

the N.W.O. could detect your heated retreat under three or four

feet of earth in Western Washington.

The roof would need at least dried untreated 6x10 [on 10x12

retreat; 6x8 on 8x12 retreat] square beams or 10 inch diameter

dried logs 10 foot long [on 10X12 retreat] with 16 inch space

between the beams for insulation. Make sure log bark is peeled off

or bugs and rot will sit in. Half inch plywood over the roof beams

for strength, with metal roofing over the plywood. Then put rolled

roofing over the metal roofing. Put a layer of cheap Space Blanket

over the top of the rolled roofing to foil metal and heat

detectors.

Put plastic tarp over the space blanket. Fill in with four feet

of dirt. You would need four, 4 inch diameter black ABS pipes for

air vents. Two in the roof, each at opposite corners. Two air vents

on the floor in opposite corners running under the wall foundation

and up for circulation. Put screen over air vents to stop mice and

bats.

If on a side hill put two air vents in upper corners and floor

vents near low side of lean-to style roof retreat. If on a side-hill

you could put one 4 inch diameter black ABS pipe in the floor to

drain dish water. Make sure to put 4 inch perforated drain pipe

under a foot of gravel around the footing of your retreat to drain

off water. This could be incorporated with your dish water drain

pipe.

You will need a front door going into a small chamber for an

exit chamber. The inside of the door should have 2 inch thick

Polystyrene Styrofoam insulation. The exit chamber would not be

insulated or heated. It would be about 4 foot wide and 6 feet long.

Big enough to open the door out and enough room to exit with a

ladder going up and out. The exit hole should be through a round

plastic barrel with a camouflaged wood lid over it.

We don't think it advisable to have a wood fire in your under-

ground retreat which puts out smoke. But if you wanted to heat with

wood some of the time you would need a fire hearth and a chimney

made of round concrete blocks for when you wanted a fire. You don't

need wood fires in this retreat because it is warm enough with an

unleaded gas lantern. Most of the time a Kerosene Lantern would

heat it. You will always be able to obtain diesel and unleaded gas

from big brother's timber companies. This retreat would accommodate

only two or three people and supplies.

Over the top of the retreat heavily plant salal brush (Gaul-

theria Shallon) or Ceanothus, and black berry vines. Make the air

vents, exit and chimney so they can be covered and/or camouflaged

when the retreat is vacant. Make the retreat so hidden a hunter

could walk within a few feet of the retreat and not know it was

there.

This is best done on the ridge top, or side hill. It can be done

on flat ground, but drainage would be a problem. If on side hill,

slope the roof lean-to style so back side is ten feet tall and the

low front side is 6 feet tall near the exit inside so water will

drain off. If on a ridge top, shape the roof so it slopes evenly

both ways as the ridge top proceeds down on both sides.

You might be somewhat safe using a small fire at night, but

never in the daytime when the smoke can be seen. Make sure there

are lots of obstacles, blackberry vines and thick brush in the way

of hunters so they won't be likely to come near your retreat. Put

up diversion obstacles on trails diverting hunters away from your

retreat.

It would be best to not live in your retreat during hunting

season. We would put up temporary shelters to live in during

hunting season and eight months out of the year. The N.W.O. will

think you are a hunter or camper, so you will be relatively safe.

Or, better yet, the N.W.O. might outlaw hunting alleviating the

problem of hunters stumbling onto your retreat.

Don't loiter around outside by your underground retreat. Don't

have tables, chairs, structure, or stacked fire wood near your

underground retreat. Those items are best situated at least two

miles from your underground retreat. Do your outside work,

loitering and lounging near those items rather than by your

underground retreat.

Use your underground retreat like a bear, coyote or wolf uses

her den. She only goes there to sleep at night. She is very careful

no-one observes her while she goes to her retreat. She always uses

different trails so no beaten trail leads to her den.

In Western Washington, we would not use our underground retreat

except during the coldest four months of the year. It is easy to

build aboveground shelters to live in eight months out of the year

in Western Washington. If aboveground shelters are discovered just

move on and build another shelter. But, underground shelters are a

life and death matter. If your underground shelter is discovered

you will die in cold weather. Don't build any shelters within a

mile of your caches.

Your underground retreat should be in a logged off area where

new Fir trees have been transplanted; in a place where the Fir

trees are about 7-10 inches in diameter at the base. It will be

years before those 10-15 year old trees are logged again. This will

afford you years of use in case the mark of the beast is delayed.

They claim they will log Fir timber which is 60 years old.

The largest problem will be constructing the underground retreat

without being spotted from the air. Thus, you will need trees high

enough to cover your retreat site. If your retreat is spotted

during construction you must abandon it and move on. You should

build your underground retreat in the shortest space of time

possible. If possible stay with the project until it is complete

enough to conceal. The only way you will know if it has been

spotted from the air is by occupying the area continuously until it

is complete enough to conceal. Then you will know if aircraft could

have spotted it.

The size and construction of the preceding underground retreat

was my own idea after much research. I'm not in good health and old

enough I need something as comfortable as described above for long

term survival. If you want to include women and children you will

need those amenities.

Yet, the Ninja warriors say my above retreat plans are too big,

expensive, time consuming, and difficult to build. They say you

should only build 4 by 4 feet by 8 feet long underground structures

out of what is available at the site. They say as long as you can

sit up on a chair in your underground retreat it is big enough.

We can sit up on a chair in a structure 4 feet high. Four feet

wide is enough to accommodate your sleeping bag and a few supp-

lies. It is true that you could survive in the winter and stay warm

in a 4x4x8 foot underground structure. Yet, I would make it 4x4x8

as the inside measurement rather than the outside measurement. I

would build the roof using 5 foot long 10 inch diameter logs every

Ninja say rocks inside chicken wire make good walls. I would

still support the roof with 6 inch diameter logs every 16 inches on

the walls. I would think three or four feet of dirt over the roof

needs those logs for support. Yet, if clay or some kind of mortar

were used with those rocks inside chicken wire, they could support

the weight of the dirt on the roof.

I would at least put one 1/2 inch plywood sheet with rolled

roofing, space blanket and plastic tarp on the roof. I would at

least insulate it with space blankets on the walls and roof inside.

The bright side of the space blanket would reflect light well.

The Ninja warriors say as long as you have the temporary 4x4x8

foot underground structure for emergency conditions you will have

plenty of time after the emergency [after mark of beast starts] to

build a bigger and better underground structure. They say it is

better to have several 4x4x8 foot underground structures made out

of material at the sites than to have one big structure that if

found would lead to your demise.

They say working people just do not have the time and money to

build underground structures as nice as the one I suggest. Yet,

they say everything else said in this book is applicable. They say

to build several 4x4x8 foot underground structures first. Then if

you have the time and money build the 10x12 structure I suggest. I

am inclined to agree. But, I left the section on how to build the

big expensive underground structure so you will have food for

thought.

Buy the book called "Building with Stone" by Charles McRaven, Walls" by John Vivian, 112 pages, ISBN 0-88266-074-8 [$8.95] These

books give all the information you will need on building your

underground retreat with stone. If there are lots of stone near

your retreat area we would advise you to build it with stone and

insulating it as described with our wood framed retreat.

If you are planning on building an underground retreat, buy the

book called "The $50 & Up Underground House Book", by Mike Oehler, ISBN great value to you. His idea of putting a plastic tarp on the roof,

then 4 inches of dirt for insulation, then another plastic tarp

over the insulation layer and covering with earth has merit! Mike

lives in Bonners Ferry Idaho.

END OF RETREAT BUILDING SECTION

********************** BERRY DRYING PROCEDURE ***************

Buy some books on drying berries. I'm having trouble finding

books on Indian food drying methods. "DEHYDRATING", by Una Jean

Peterson is of use. The book called "Making & using DRIED FOODS", by

Phyllis Hobson is of value. "DRYING, CURING & SMOKING FOODS", by Marian

Faux, ISBN 0-448-12611-7, 160 pages is of value.

I found an article on drying berries in a Pacific N.W. Ethnobotany book.

Page 542 of "INVESTIGATION AND ANALYSIS OF THE

PUGET SOUND INDIANS" said: "Blackberries in particular, and

probably other berries also, were dried. On Whidbey Island it was

said that the blackberries were sun-dried loose and then packed

away for winter use.

Berries were gathered and dried in many places on both sides of

Whidbey and Camano Islands, and also on Gedney or Hat Island. In

Monroe area the blackberries were sun-dried and then pressed into

cakes about 8" x 5" x 1 1/4". These were stored in baskets and

became part of the winter f ood supply. The informants in this case

did not know whether the cakes were pressed by hand or in a mold.

Such cakes would keep all winter."

The procedure for making the blackberry cakes was as follows:

"The berries were dried loose in the sun just as they had been

gathered. When dry they were put in a basket with a little water on

them, crushed together with a clean rock until smashed, and put

together like bread in cakes about [7-8" x 4-5"]. These were again

dried and stored away.

In other cases it is possible the loose dried berries were simply

hand-pressed into cakes - the informants were not specific. Salal-

berries and Island huckleberries and blueberries were likewise made

into cakes as described above. While these berry cakes were easily

edible as they were, they were often eaten as stewed fruit for

dessert after the main meat or fish meal."

When sun-drying meat, fish, fruit and berries it is best to put

cheesecloth over the meat, fish, fruit and berries so they are not

exposed directly to the sun. It also keeps flies and bees off. No

slices should be over 1/4 inch thick.

END OF BERRY DRYING PROCEDURE

**************** CREATING ITEMS TO BARTER ***********************

We could live entirely off the land by trapping animals, growing

hemp and selling the products we created. One man could live off

the land year-around like a king with the knowledge in the books we

suggest in this book on only $30.00 per week income which he could

generate by trapping animals and growing hemp and selling the

products he produced.

If you wanted to be more self sufficient, you could keep your

own bees for honey and sugar; tap maple trees in March for syrup

and sugar; make moccasins to replace shoes and siphon unleaded gas

and diesel from parked vehicles. Don't siphon near retreat. You

might be able to make kerosene lamp mantles by spinning hemp or

fireweed cotton. If you were that self sufficient you could live on

about $15.00 per week year- around.

We could even live off the land by legally trapping animals with

a trapping license in the winter and selling the furs. You need no

license to sell crafted leather, buckskin and fur products derived

from hides and skins as long as you don't tell where you got the

hides.

About the only items you will need to re-supply are salt,

pepper, spices, mantles, lantern parts, cook stove parts,

batteries, shoes, hunting boots, rubber boots, Kerosene, unleaded

gas, propane, sugar, rice, honey, flour, sprout seeds, mustard,

cheese, plastic baggies, cooking oil, tooth paste and brush.

You could trap Raccoon and Coyotes and make coonskin style hats

with tails to sell or barter. They sell for from $35.00 [coyote] to

$80.00 [coon] each. When trapping, trappers and Indians wore short

pants or breechcloths with leggings they could remove when wading

in water. You could barter your handmade Mountainman clothing. You

might be able to barter honey cone, meat and furs. One bee hive can

produce 40-100 pounds of honey to sell each year.

It would be wise to buy a few books on how to grow your own

Marijuana plants. If you are wanted by the law and the government

plans on killing you, you won't be in any more trouble if you grew

and sold Marijuana and poppy opium.

"Marijuana Growers Handbook, Indoor/ Greenhouse Edition" by Ed

Rosenthal, is an excellent revised and expanded 231 page book. ISBN subject. "Marijuana Grower's Guide", by Mel Frank & Ed Rosenthal, ISBN book on the subject of growing outdoor Marijuana. Seeds stored in

the frigerator and seeds left in the buds and dried, keep and

geminate for two years.

"INDOOR MARIJUANA HORTICULTURE", by Jorge Cervantes, ISBN "CLOSET CULTIVATOR", by Ed Rosenthal, ISBN 0-86719-359-X, [120

pages, 1991, $14.95] is another excellent book. As you can see by

the names of the authors the Jews have been highly involved in

Marijuana.

One last book of interest is called:"MARIJUANA CHEMISTRY,

Genetics, Processing & Potency", by Michael Starks, 200 pages, ISBN seeds and methods in growing to produce the best and most powerful

smoking marijuana. "POISONOUS & HALLUCINOGENIC MUSHROOMS"

by Richard & Karen Haard, ISBN 0-930180-05-4, 126 pages, [1980, $7.95],

is another book of interest to grow something to supply the hippies and

perverts for barter. Loompanics Unlimited PO Box 1197 Port Townsend

Washington 98368, 1-800-380-2230 has many of these titles and other

good titles on these subjects for sale.

It is important to have several books on the subject of growing

Marijuana if you plan on growing and selling Marijuana after the

crunch. This could be an important way to generate the barter power

you will need to survive.

Even though many of the above titles are for growing indoor and

greenhouse Marijuana, those books have many good tips that are

useful in growing outdoor Marijuana. I have never grown or smoked

Marijuana, but I have read and keep all the above books, plus a few

more in my survivalist library.

The expert survivalist can't afford to avoid an important source

of barter power like growing Marijuana. There will be lots of per-

vert hippies with the Mark of the Beast chip implanted in them, who

will be buying goods we need to barter for. When the crunch comes,

why not supply their needs, so they can supply our needs? If they

won't do business shoot them. Anyone with the chip is fair game.

DRYING FOOD

We found that old wrecked cars with good windows make excellent

dehydrators for drying plants, meat, fruits and berries. They also

make good greenhouses for growing tomatoes or Marijuana.

END OF CREATING ITEMS TO BARTER SECTION

********************** MOST NEEDED ITEMS **********************

Armed with the knowledge in the books we have listed in this

book, one man could live indefinitely on less than [1996] $15.00

per week. The difficult part is: how do you get $15.00 per week

when you can't buy or sell under the Mark of the Beast System? You

beg, borrow, steal, commandeer and barter! All is fair in war!

The following items would be the main things you will run out

of: Lantern mantles, wicks, globes, flashlight batteries, bulbs,

medical supplies, salt, pepper, chili powder, sugar, baggies,

cheesecloth, rubber and leather boots, baking soda, baking powder,

yeast, sprout seed, tooth paste, stove and lantern parts, stitching

thread and needles. Thus, stock up heavy on these items. Yet,

remember, flashlight batteries, baking soda, baking powder, sprout

seed, and yeast only keep about two years.

It would be nice to have some store bought flour to mix with

your handmade Cattail and other natural resource flour. Store

bought Flour keeps less than one year. It would be wise to cache

about three pair of high top rubber boots like farmers and trappers

wear. These rubber boot go up almost to the knees. Rubber boots are

handy when wading in shallow water. They cost only about $20.00 a

pair. Trappers do lots of wading in shallow water. These rubber

boots would save you lots of suffering from the cold water while

trapping. Beaver and Muskrat trappers should cache several pairs of

hip boots.

Of most importance, if you wear prescription eye glasses always

buy new frames when you get your glasses changed. Keep the old eye

glasses in the old frames for backup. If you want to survive buy

about three pairs of prescription eye glasses each in frames. When

in survival mode or when trapping make sure to keep a safety string

on your prescription eye glasses. When setting traps branches have

a habit of knocking off your glasses.

If you break or lose your prescription glasses you are in deep

trouble. Guard your eye glasses with your life! Also cache a good

pair of 8 or 10 power field glasses. In survival, eyes, feet and

teeth are very important and should be protected at all cost.

END OF MOST NEEDED ITEMS SECTION

******************** LOST ART OF MAKING LYE *******************

There are several good books on making soap, Namely: "SOAP,

Making it, Enjoying it" by Ann Bramson and "The Art of SOAP MAKING"

by Merilyn Mohr. Soap is made from rendered fat and lye, but not

much is written on how to make lye.

Many survivalists have asked how to make Lye. Even though Lye is

cheap to buy in the stores learn how to make your own. Lye making

is an old-time skill worth knowing. Knowing how to make and use Lye

is an interesting bit of old-time knowledge and potential survival

lore. Under the mark of the beast system Christians won't be able

to buy Lye in the store. Lye-making is seldom mentioned in old

books or books on survival. Lye had many uses in addition to

soapmaking, and most early Americans "just knew" how it was made.

Lye is often called caustic soda. The basic ingredient was

hardwood ashes. The whiter the ash the better. Water leaching

through those ashes is lye. Lye leached from wood ash is a

potassium lye or caustic potash. Hard soaps are made from caustic

soda. It was made in a wooden barrel with a small hole in the

bottom, near the edge. (Substitute-plastic or aluminum trash cans

or buckets-won't work: the lye will eat them up.) The wooden barrel

was on a platform of wood or rocks, with a stoneware container put

under it to catch the lye.

Put a few inches of gravel on the bottom of wooden barrel. On

top of the gravel place a layer of straw. Dump the hardwood ashes

on top of the straw. Then just slowly pour water in the top and

catch the lye at the bottom. To make it stronger, send it through

the ashes again. One way to test lye's strength is to dip a feather

into it. If it eats the feather, it's good lye. Read pages 17-19 of

"SOAP, Making it, Enjoying it" by Ann Bramson, about the dangers of

making and using lye.

Before the age of chemistry lye was widely used as a powerful

disinfectant: mixed with water at a ratio of 1:150 it was used to

scrub stalls, barns and hen-houses, cellars, drain pipes and out-

houses. White clothes were boiled in a lye and water solution to

make them whiter. A teaspoon to a gallon of water disinfected dairy

equipment and utensils. It was used as an orchard spray and rust

remover and mixed with corn-starch as paint remover. It was poured

down rat holes. Some even reportedly used it in very diluted

form-to worm pigs and chickens. The last is risky!

Hominy was made by: "Making lye strong enough to eat a feather.

Take good sound corn, wash, and drop into the hot lye. As soon as

the hulls start coming off and eyes falling out, remove and throw

into cold water. Wash well and put the corn into a pot, allowing

room for the corn to swell. Boil until thoroughly done, and add

salt. It is good fried in butter or gravy, and makes a good

breakfast dish."

Remember, lye is a dangerous caustic that must be used with

caution, and never in contact with aluminum. I have never tried the

above recipe. If you try it, do it at your own risk. I put the

recipe here from texts I have read to be used for information

purposes only.

END OF LYE MAKING SECTION

CANDLE MAKING

Making candles is very easy. Use rendered tallow or Beeswax for

the candle. Obtain or spin some cotton string wide enough for the

center wick. Or spin some fireweed cotton with a handspinner. Dip

cotton string in hot tallow or beeswax several times until it is

the size you want. Every time you dip the string more Beeswax or

tallow sticks to the candle and the bigger the candle becomes. You

can also use some kind of mold to pour your hot beeswax or tallow

into. That is all there is to it. The Indians poured hot beeswax or

tallow into seashells with a cotton wick in the center for a lamp.

The Indians dipped cattail down spikes into tallow for torches. The

Indians used handspun cords and braided them into large ropes,

fixed them to a stick and dipped the rope end into hot tallow for

torches.

Beaver Skinning & Stretching

Beaver are skinned and stretched differently than any other

animal. When you find the beaver in the trap, dip him up and down

in the water to give him as good a rinsing as you can. This removes

the mud and sand from the fur. Cut off his hind and front feet with

a hatchet. The legs of beaver should never be split in skinning or

you beaver fur won't stretch right for good market value. Take your

knife and cut around the tail at the extreme edge of the fur; but

do not cut off the tail, because it will serve as a handle to turn

him about while skinning.

Begin skinning at the edge of the under lip, cut straight down

the belly to the tail. Skin around the tail and body as far as

possible, and then run your knife around under the skin of each leg

from the inside and outside until they are free from the hide.

Then pull the legs through the hole made by cutting off the

feet. Then you can turn him belly down and start from the tail and

skin toward the head. Completely remove the hide as you proceed.

This method leaves the cutting around the eyes, ears, and nose

until the last, thereby keeping a lot of blood from run ning all

over the rest of the hide, as it usually does when the whole head

is skinned first.

When you have the skin removed on the back partway toward the

head, you can turn the tail between the legs. With the carcass

leaning forward a little nearly standing upright, you can easily

finish the skinning. You can also skin beaver by hanging them from

a limb with strong cords looped around the tail. It is very

difficult to flesh the hide during skinning.

The skin should be stretched taut when you are fleshing. It can

be done better in camp. Thus, when skinning the beaver it is best

to leave the outer layer of flesh and fat on the hide. Make sure to

take the castor glands and oil sacs, because they have value. If

you do skin the beaver in the woods near the catch, spread out the

hide fur side down and fold in each side toward the center, rolling

it up and put it in your packsack. Roll the castors on one and the

beaver hind quarters on the other end for meat. Beaver meat is fine

eating, especially the tail between the paddle and the main body.

When in camp dry the fur side of the skin a little. After it is

somewhat dry, comb the hair backward a little to raise up the fur

to hasten the drying. Do this a few time until the fur is dry

enough to place fur side down upon your final stretching surface

ready for the fleshing and stretching. The drier the fur is when it

is put on the stretching surface, the quicker it will dry.

The above process makes the fur stand up better, being fluffy

and looking better. It is best to stretch the hide on a flat smooth

wood surface. Pine, cedar or spruce work fine for this purpose

because the stretching nails must drive and pull easily.

It is best to use four foot square boards like plywood. But out in

the wild you will have to split out cedar or spruce boards four foot long,

smoothing them with a jackplane. Nail the boards to two 4 inch

diameter, four foot long sticks which are flattened on one side.

Fleshing and stretching is easier when your stretching board is

lying flat on a table.

Stretch the hide once or twice before laying it aside to dry.

When stretching lay the skin fur side down on the stretcher. The

finished shape should be a very wide oval, near round. I think it

is better to stretch the beaver hide from head to tail one-fifth or

one-sixth longer than it is wide.

Start the stretching by securely tacking a nail in the nose,

then two nails on each side of the nose to get the shape of the

head started, because the skin tears much easier around the head.

Then tack a nail on each side about halfway between the head and

tail. Draw the center of the tail down as far as it will go and

tack in three or four nails.

Then go all around the skin tacking nails about every four

inches stretching the hide as you go. Two inch nails work best.

Stretch the hide by using leverage with the nails. As you tack the

nails to the hide point the nails towards you using leverage with

the nail draw the hide to the desired point. Do this by prying the

nail into an upright position and tacking the nail.

Place the nails about one-quarter of an inch from the edge

[closer to the edge on the tougher parts] of the hide. All nails

should be tacked from one-fourth to three-eighths of an inch deep

in the wood stretcher, depending on the softness of the wood used.

When finished the hide should be very taut. Then you are ready to

begin fleshing.

Do not try to flesh a beaver hide in strips as you might do with

other animals. Begin at the edge between the nails and go all the

way around the whole hide. The first four or five inches from the

edge are easy because there is no lean meat. The fat must come off.

When you are about three or four inches from the edge getting into

the lean meat, it sticks like cement. Thus, you will have to be

more careful going slower.

At this point the hide often gets slack so it is time to re-

stretch the hide by adding a few more nails and then pulling the

old nails as you go all the way around the hide. When done the

nails will not be more than one inch apart on the entire circumference.

If you have done a good job, the hide should be clean and free from all

fat, meat and ridges. Make sure to sew or nail the leg holes closed before drying.

If not quite smooth, it can be scraped a little, but be careful

not to overdo it making the hide too thin or making a hole. When

finished and the skin is somewhat dry, you can put another beaver

skin on the other side of your stretching board. Store the skin on

the board in a cool dry place where the air can circulate.

You will need four or more stretching boards if you are catching

beaver rapidly. The beaver hides must stay on the stretching boards

until they are dry enough to keep their shape without curling when

you take them off the board. Be careful when pulling the nails from

a dry hide because dry hide tears easily. Place your fingers around

the nail holding the hide down as you pull the nails.

End of Beaver skinning & Stretching

****************** HOW TO DEODORIZE SKUNK SMELL ****************

Scientist Paul Kreebaum, a researcher on thiols, some of the

stinkiest stuff imaginable, developed a simple home remedy for

skunk stink. The juice of a skunk contains thiols. Although some

have tried tomato juice and ammonia to remove the skunk's odor with

mediocre results, Kreebaum figured out that the trick is to oxidize

the thiols away, removing them by getting them into the air.

He found that a quart of 3 percent [The pint bottle we bought at

the store in town was 3 percent hydrogen peroxide and 97 percent

water] hydrogen peroxide, a cup of baking soda and a teaspoon of

liquid soap will do the job. After it is applied to the effected

whatever, it can be rinsed off with a water hose. Although this is

an effective remedy, it can't be patented because it uses common

household items as ingredients. Kreebaum saved the world from skunk

stink, but won't make a nickel from it. [Taken from page 26 of "The

TRAPPER & PREDATOR CALLER" Vol. 20/ Number 9 /September 1995.]

End of Survival Section

APPENDIX C

********* ETHICS OF THE STATE OF WAR *********

By, John Locke

"The State of War is a state of Enmity and Destruction: And,

therefore, declaring by Word or Action, not a passionate and hasty,

but a sedate settled Design upon another Man's Life puts him in a

State of War with him against whom he has declared such an inten-

tion and so has exposed his life to the other's power to be taken

away by him or any one that joins with him in his Defence and es-

pouses his Quarrel; it being reasonable and just, I should have a

right to destroy that which threatens me with Destruction.

For, by the fundamental Law of Nature, Man being to be preserved as

much as possible when all cannot be preserved, the safety of the

Innocent is to be preferred: And one may destroy a Man who makes

War upon him or has discovered an Enmity to his being for the same

reason that he may kill a wolf or a lion; because such Men are not

under the ties of the Common-Law of Reason have no other Rule but

that of Force and Violence, and so may be treated as Beasts of

Prey, those dangerous and noxious Creatures that will be sure to

destroy him whenever he falls into their Power.

And hence it is, that he who attempts to get another Man into his

Absolute Power, does thereby put himself into a State of War with

him: It being to be understood as a Declaration of a design upon

his Life.

For I have reason to conclude that he who would get me into his

Power without my consent would use me as he pleased when he had got

me there, and destroy me, too, when he had a fancy to it; for no-

body can desire to have me in his absolute Power unless it be to

compel me by force to that which is against the Right of my Free-

dom, i.e. make me a Slave.

To be free from such force is the only security of my Preserva-

tion; and reason bids me look on him as an Enemy to my Preserva-

tion who would take away that Freedom which is the fence to it; so

that he who makes an attempt to enslave me thereby puts himself

into a State of War with me.

He that in the State of Nature would take away the Freedom that

belongs to anyone in that State must necessarily be supposed to

have a design to take away everything else, that Freedom being the

Foundation of all the rest: As he that in the State of Society

would take away the Freedom belonging to those of that Society or

Commonwealth must be supposed to design to take away from them

everything else and so be looked on as in a State of War.

This makes it lawful for a Man to kill a Thief who has not in the

least hurt him nor declared any design upon his Life any farther

than by the use of force so to get him in his Power, as to take away

his money or what he pleases from him; because using

Force, where he has no Right, to get me into his Power, let his

Pretence be what it will, I have no reason to suppose that he who

would take away my Liberty would not, when he had me in his Power,

take away everything else.

And, therefore, it is lawful for me to treat him as one who has put

himself into a State of War with me, i.e. kill him if I can, for to

that Hazzard does he justly expose himself, whoever intro- duces a

State of War and is aggressor in it.

And here we have the plain Difference between the State of Nature

and the State of War, which, however some Men have con- founded,

are as far distant as a State of Peace, good Will, mutual Assist-

ance and Preservation and a State of Enmity, Malice, Violence and

mutual Destruction are one from another.

Men living together according to Reason, without a common Superior

on Earth with Authority to judge between them, is properly the

State of Nature. But force, or a declared design of force upon the

person of another, where there is no common Superior on Earth to

appeal to for relief, is the State of War: And 'tis the want of

such an Appeal gives a Man the right of War even against an Aggres-

sor, though he be in Society and a fellow subject.

Thus, a Thief, whom I cannot harm but by Appeal to the Law for

having stolen all that I am worth, I may kill when he sets on me to

rob me but of my horse or coat; because the Law, which was made for

MY Preservation, where it cannot interpose to secure my Life from

present Force which is lost, is capable of no Reparation, permits

me my own Defense and the right of War, liberty to kill the

Aggressor, because the Aggressor allows no time to appeal to our

common Judge, nor the decision of the Law for remedy in a case

wheret the mischief may be irreparable.

Want of a common Judge with Authority puts all Men in a State of

Nature: Force without Right upon a Man's Person makes a State of

War, both where there is, and is not, a common Judge.

But when the actual Force is over, the State of War ceases between

those that are in Society and are equally on both sides subjected

to the fair Determination of the Law, because then there lies open

the remedy of Appeal for the past Injury and to prevent future

Harm.

But, where no such Appeal is, as in the State of Nature, for want

of positive Laws and Judges with Authority to Appeal to, the State

of War once begun, continues, with a right to the innocent party to

destroy the other whenever he can, until the Aggressor offers Peace

and desires Reconciliation on such Terms as may repair any Wrongs

he has already done and secure the innocent for the future; nay

where an Appeal to the Law and constituted Judges lies open, but

the Remedy is denied by a manifest perverting of Justice and a

barefaced wresting of the Laws to protect or indemnify the violence

or injuries of some Men, or party of Men, there it is hard to

imagine anything but a State of War.

For wherever Violence is used and injury done, though by hands

appointed to administer Justice, it is still Violence and injury

however coloured with the Name, Pretences, or forms of Law, the End

whereof being to protect and redress the Innocent by an unbiased

Application of it to all who are under it; wherever that is not

bona fide done, War is made upon the Sufferers, who having no

appeal on Earth to right them, they are left to the only Remedy in

such cases, an Appeal to Heaven.

To avoid this State of War (wherein there is no Appeal but to

Heaven, and wherein every the least Difference is apt to end, where

there is no Authority to decide between the Contenders) is one

great reason of Men's putting themselves into Society and quitting

the State of Nature.

For where there is an Authority, a Power of Earth, from which

Relief can be had by Appeal, there the continuance of the State of

War is excluded, and the Controversy is decided by that Power.

Had there been any such Court, any superior Jurisdiction on Earth

to determine the Right between Jephtha and the ammonites, they had

never come to a State of War, but we see he was forced to appeal to

Heaven.

The Lord the Judge (says he) be Judge this Day between the Children

of Israel, and the Children of Ammon. Judges 11:27, A nd then Prose-

cuting and relying on his Appeal, he leads out his Army to Battle:

And, therefore, in such Controversies where the Questin is put, who

shall be Judge?

It cannot be meant, who shall decide the controversy; everyone

knows what Jephtha here tells us, that the Lord the Judge shall

Judge. (Where one knows what Jephtha knew on Earth, the Appeal lies

to God in Heaven.) That Question then cannot mean, who shall judge?

Whether another hath put himself in a State of War with me, and

whether I may, as Jephtha did, appeal to Heaven in it? Of that I

myself can only be Judge in my own Conscience, as I will answer it

at the great Day to the supreme Judge of all Men."

Sincerely: JOHN LOCKE

Where law ends, says Mr. Locke, "tyranny begins, if the law be

transgressed to another's harm." [Samuel Adams, Boston Gazette- A.D. utionary period paid the greatest deference to John Locke.

The first great speech by James Otis was wholly based upon

Locke's ideas, as was Samuel Adam's speeches and writings. The

Declaration of Independence contains many phrases from Locke's

Treatise. In fact, there was not any important writer of the

American Revolution that did not openly refer to Locke or follow

the lead he had taken.

Jews have secret ADL and JDL Militias in the United States. All

Christians should join together to form secret Christian Guerrilla

Warfare group units no larger than 7 guerrillas and 7 auxiliary

support members. [See, GUERRILLA WARFARE FM 31-21 for details.]

I would not join most Militias in the United States today, because

they are not Christ Centered. Even if the Militia had Nuclear

Bombs, they are doomed without the help of Yahweh. If you join a

Militia that is not Christ Centered, you will die in vain! Militias

not authorized by the county sheriff or the governor are unlawful.

Thus, call your Guerrilla Warfare unit your church auxiliary.

When necessary, Christian Noblemen will stand and fight against

a superior force. I would rather stand with 300 Noblemen like Gid-

eon, than 10 million wicked men. When push comes to shove, adula-

tors, idolators, fornicators, boozers, loudmouths, and blasphemers

will turn tail and run from a superior force.

Don't get depressed about the British-Zionist Conspiracy or Mark of the

Beast. Take it in your stride. The Bible says there is a time for

war. Don't act prematurely or do something stupid, breaking laws

that you will live to regret. We Christian Patriots are going to

need all of you when the time for war comes. The more we serve

Christ Jesus, the more He will come to our defense, and make it

easier for us.

When the conspiracy makes their move to take patriot militia

assault rifles, it is time to fight. But, don't fight if you are

surrounded and outnumbered. Live to fight when it is expedient.

Even if they get most of our rifles, we can still defeat them.

Collecting and hiding ammunition is hundreds of times more impor-

tant than collecting rifles and pistols. Arms will be easy to come

by after the war starts. But, ammunition will be difficult to come

by.

Proper ammunition is 223 ammo for A.R. 15 and Mini-Fourteen; above for rifles. Don't store any other rifle ammunition, we must

be unified. For pistols, store 9mm, 38 special, and 357 Magnum

ammunition. Store up to 1,000 rounds in aggregate of any of the

above. Don't keep more than 300 rounds above ground where the

criminal conspirators can find it.

High-tech societies are the easiest to completely close down.

The more High-Tech the better. There is no way to defend most High-

Tech Ground Installations and bridges. Two Dozen moderately trained

patriot guerillas can almost immediately, effectively close down

the economy and industry of an entire state indefinitely.

The Zionist conspirators are out of their minds, drunk with

power. Their New World Order and Mark of the Beast is doomed to

failure. Look at the bright side. British and Zionist stooge, Bill Clinton's

intelligence is typical of our enemy. They are almost laughable.

They have under-estimated the Technical Talent of U.S. Patriots.

There are back doors which can turn technology against Zionists!

Keep in mind that not all Jews are Zionists. Some Jews are good

patriotic Americans. Yet, over ninety percent of the Jews support

Zionism. So don't start Jew bashing and harming Jews who are on our

side. Jews are just ignorant of the fact that Modern Jews are not

Israelites nor from the tribe of Judah as they have been taught.

Jews are converts to an anti-Christ cult called Judaism. Most Jews

[over 90 percent] are Ashkenazi Jews who descend from Khazari and

are of the tribe of Japheth son of Noah.

If modern Jews denounce Judaism and Zionism they are no longer

Jews and should not be harmed. Modern Jews are not a race as we

have been told. Modern Jews are converts from all races. Modern

Jews are no more a race than Catholics are a race. We can prove

this to any sane person. Read my Book Genesis Cycles. It has all

the documentation and proof you need.

If you want proof about what we are saying about Zionist Jews

Zionism and the United Nations being behind the New World Order

Conspiracy to destroy the American Constitution and set up a world

government, read my book called Genesis Cycles. It has all the

documented proof needed to convince you of the facts. It is on our

Christian Patriot computer Internet Homepage.